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John Long: Guilty Pleasures
Lynn Hill and I spent the winter of 1981 in Las Vegas, climbing daily at Red Rocks and plowing through nights at dead-end jobs. After roughly 10 seasons of climbing 300 days a year, my learning curve had flattened and I found myself singing the same old song.
That Which Shall Not be Named
In July and early August, the Swiss team of Giovanni Quirici, Francesco Pellanda and Christophe Steck made a near free ascent of Gran Diedre Desploma...
Close But No Cigar
In 1981 John Bachar cast off into the uncharted expanse of Mendlicott Dome, a steep 500-foot, knob-spackled granite face in Tuolumne Meadows, California, with nothing but a hand drill and bolts, some slings, hooks and cams. Climbing onsight and belayed by Dave Yerian, he established the litmus test for runout climbing, the Bachar-Yerian (5.11c R).
Altered State
A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance.
Camalot X4
Black Diamond’s X4s are a big addition to small protection. Even boiled down, their nuts and bolts are a mouthful: The six sizes protect from .33 to 1.62 inches, have four cam lobes and a narrow head.

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