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John Long: Guilty Pleasures
Lynn Hill and I spent the winter of 1981 in Las Vegas, climbing daily at Red Rocks and plowing through nights at dead-end jobs. After roughly 10 seasons of climbing 300 days a year, my learning curve had flattened and I found myself singing the same old song.
Superwuss (5.10), Black Canyon
“If I ever did a first ascent,” my friend Brandi said, “I would call it Super Wuss.” After belaying Brandi for nearly an hour as she hung, battled and grunted up the red 5.6 at the Boulder Rock Club, I could see that she was probably not destined for new routing. But the name made me laugh, and I thought it deserved a home on a future first ascent.
Chris Lindner
Chris Lindner has been climbing for 20 years - which is a lot, considering this blond surfer dude turned 23 in March. He's an original article: styling 5.10a trad at age 4 when the cams were almost as long as his legs, redpointing his first 8a at age 10, and climbing 5.14c at age 16.
An Encounter with Fred
Joe Josephson phoned with an interesting proposal: Fred Beckey had come to town for a reunion of Montana's Dirty Sox Club, a guild of Montana climbers from the 1960s through the 1980s.

If anyone has earned an honorary membership in a group named Dirty Sox it is Washington's Fred Beckey, sovereign of American DirtBag Climbers.
Petzl Spirit Express Quickdraw Review
Field test review of the Petzl Spirit Express Quickdraw.
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