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The Epic of All Epics15-Jan-2013I had been in Caracas, Venezuela, for less than three hours when Alfredo turned to Cory and me, and said: “Don’t talk to anyone, don’t let anyone know that you’re foreign, and try not to be seen by anyone. Bad people live here.” ...
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El Cap's Hardest: Wings of Steel14-Jan-2013The first ascent of the Great Slab on El Cap sparked climbing’s biggest character assassination, a fit that began with chopped ropes and now, nearly 30 years later continues with online vitriol that is piled nearly as high as the Big Stone itself. With the second ascent of the wall completed just this summer after countless days and some 500 feet of falls, redemption for the FA team may finally be at hand....
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Island of Opportunity: Exploring the Potential of Puerto Rico08-Jan-2013Jorge Colon took numerous wrong turns but eventually we arrived at the largest slaughterhouse on the island of Puerto Rico. Jorge, a local climber and a dog lover who runs a kennel, had come here so he could purchase an industrial-sized bone cutter and a large bag of bovine tripe to be used for dog food. ...
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Place of Happiness15-Dec-2012
Stefan Glowacz and friends make a first ascent on South America's largest rock monolith, ground up and all out....
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Tom Patey: The Tiger of Yesterday27-Feb-2012
There is a photograph of Tom Patey taken on the Old Man of Hoy, a 450-foot pinnacle of rock standing in the ocean off the north coast of Scotland....
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The Secret of Nanda Devi27-Feb-2012Forty years ago a team of top american climbers participated in a botched cia operation that lost a plutonium spy device high in the himalaya. Here's senior contributing editor pete takeda's account of that bizarre expedition and his attempts to uncover t...
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The First Attempt on Latok I North Ridge by Michael Kennedy27-Feb-2012
20 attempts and 30 years later, the Himalayan Gem Remains Unclimbed...
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Simon Yates' New Route on Mount Vancouver27-Feb-2012
Simon Yates and Paul Schweizer gamble on the first alpine-style ascent of the Southwest Spur of Mount Vancouver. | By Paul Schweizer...
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Perfect Chaos27-Feb-2012
How did the disaster that left 11 dead on K2 happen under blue skies, without a breath of wind? The complete account of three days of tragedy and heroism....
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A Short Walk With Whillans27-Feb-2012
The Legendary British Climber on the Eiger....
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John Long: A Man for All Seasons27-Feb-2012The myth of Oliver Moon changed the face of Yosemite climbing forever....
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The Prophet07-Mar-2011In 2001, Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles made an audacious ground-up, no-drill, on-sight attempt to free climb a new route on El Cap. Nine years later, The Prophet finally spoke....
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Brotherhood on Orizaba25-Feb-2011Even before we tugged up our harnesses beside Orizaba's lower glacier, I'd been given hints the world was askew. The mice that infested the Quertano Hut pooled by the door as we readied to leave, their demonic eyes reflecting our headlamps....
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A Desperate Move04-Feb-2011I had my first full-time job. I was newly married and had a five-month-old son. I was 24. My life had seemed to be on track well enough....
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The Last Moonset01-Dec-2010As soon as we landed on the Kahiltna Glacier we ran into a familiar face from home, in New Hampshire.Ben Gilmore greeted us, Come on up and hang out!......
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Climbing Dark Star, a Sierra Classic30-Nov-2010
There's nothing wrong with spending a summer in Vancouver when Squamish is your backyard, I just wanted more this year. Then the phone rang.
"Come to California," Trev said. "We'll climb some real mountains. There's a couple of Grade Vs I want to get on."... -
Crossroads04-Nov-2010"Pretty sure I'm floating," I said into the phone immediately after my friend Matt called to say, "Whatever you do, don't drive your usual way.
At that moment my car's engine quit, and it lifted up and started drifting toward a gas station. It was 12:30 a.m. and dumping rain. "What do you mean?" Matt said.... -
John Long: The Royal Scam11-Oct-2010Coming clean on the mysterious first ascent of a Yosemite classic....
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Dreamweaver Mixed Cliimb Rocky Mountain National Park01-Oct-2010Bruised ribs from a bike crash did not qualify Greg for our toughest man title. I had the trump card: a permanently broken rib, called a non-union fracture in the orthopedic jargon, from a surfing crash. It was no contest....
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Black Canyon of the Gunnison, The Diagonal Epic01-Oct-2010In the spring of 1975, the teenage Earl Wiggins and John Sherwood met me in Moab to climb the first ascent of Negro Bill Flake and other routes. After that, Earl decided to blow off high school and hitchhike to Yosemite. ...
Ice Climbing in Norway with WIll Gadd
World class ice climber Will Gadd journeys to the titanic ice of Norway to establish new routes and learn first hand the hard ethics first established by Henry Barber in the 1970s.








