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Refugee10-Sep-2010We tried to do everything right and were still caught out. The evening before, Ken and I reconned our route partway up the mountain. We packed our p......
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To the BASE Layer01-Jul-2010
ROCK CLIMBING and BASE jumping go together like peanut butter and chocolate, and the proof is in the growing legions of climbers who are......
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THE KARMA CONNECTION01-Jul-2010BY JEFF LONGSINCE THE DAYS OF GEORGE MALLORY, Rongbuk Monastery has been part of the Everest experience. No one reaches the north side without passing......
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The Dark Art30-Jun-2010BY FITZ CAHALLSITTING IN A KATOOMBA PUB, GARTH MILLER TOLD ME, Whatever you do, don't grab the surfboard.We were in the center of the Blue Mountains......
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Altered State29-Jun-2010A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance....
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THE WATERFALL28-Jun-2010AT 5 A.M. WE PACKED UP IN THE pitch-black dampness to continue our descent from Mount Pembroke. Ron led through the thick coastal foliage and chill mi......
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The Montana Girls25-Jun-2010EL CAP REPORT 5/23/07The Montana girls were going slowly yesterday, as you may recall, and I figured they would be lucky to make Dolt Tower by midnigh......
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PYTHON25-Jun-2010Above me was a perfect roof crack; around me, a continent of poverty and war; in front of me, a nightmare....
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70 VIRGINS25-Jun-2010
We rolled out the map and pinned the corners with our beers. With a finger I traced the Jeep path to the first lake and the steep three miles to camp ......
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Life Without Limits18-Jun-2010Alex Honnold looks startled when he opens the door to greet me. His eyes, which are wide —“like a cow’s,” he claims— shine. He’s surprised that I’m writing about him, that reps from various companies now actively recruit him, and that John Bachar and Peter Croft have phoned him....
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Self Service21-May-2010It was already pushing 4 p.m. on the cool May afternoon when I arrived for the first time in Waterval Boven, the small South African railway town near......
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The Crossing09-Apr-2010As I slogged up a flooded gorge, the churning water drowned out the sound of the rain beating down on the hood of my cagoule. It was the fourth day si......
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Disco Dance Party on the Blob09-Apr-2010It is 2:00 in the afternoon on a warm spring day in the desert. "There's a naked disco party tonight," Holly says.
Normally, "naked" and "party" are intriguing, but in the climbing world the chances are slim for catching a decent ratio of sexes. ... -
Rescue 5.1130-Mar-2010
The climber driving the ambulance was only trying to help the climber who had fallen on his head....
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VSC Reprise24-Feb-2010Return of the Very Serious Climber—older yet eternally questing. And now, on 8a.nu....
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Border Country24-Feb-2010
The ring of a hammer hitting a drill bit bounced down Gunsight Gully in Yosemite. Mad Dog's mullet flapped in the breeze as he swore about having to sink another bristler. Balanced at a small stance with the help of two hooks, Mad Dog (née Dana Drummond) wailed on the drill. ...
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Crashing the Heights04-Feb-2010Kyle and I had been moving for over 18 hours, skiing five miles of glacier and climbing 3,100 feet of the convoluted south west ridge of Peak 11300 in Alaska. The setting sun bathed the peaks in a soft, rosy light. As Kyle rappelled to a small col in the ridge, where we planned to bivy, I snapped a few pictures and smiled....
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Whiteout02-Feb-2010
I never told Scott the wind story. I crawled back into the tent, shivering, and was so bundled up in my down parka that he couldn't see the fear that......
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The Bucket List02-Feb-2010
The List is stupid. Why the heck would you even think like this?No one cares.Climbing won't change anything. It won't change politics, global warming ......
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Finding Nirvana02-Feb-2010
Of course it was a bad idea, but even the guide considered it safe. He bought 400 rupees’ worth. So did some of my Sherpa friends. The interpreter planned to give it to her parents to improve digestion, eyesight and stamina. Why not try a piece?...
In the Land of Myths
It's a long way to the runout routes of Meteora, a climbing area as ancient as Greek myth.








