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Beautiful Failure02-Feb-2010
I am now ready to tell my firsthand encounter of being left alone to die this last May on Everest. It is a true story with no details embellished. I am willing to sell my story and photos to the party willing to pay the most for a story about human greed and the fight for survival....
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The Plastic Prince29-Jan-2010
Turns out the hardest crag of all is indoors...
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Confessions of an Almost Serious Climber29-Jan-2010
I hoped that my best friend would fall. Not just my climbing partner but my best friend. We were both working on an unclimbed route at The Columns, our local climbing area in Eugene, Oregon, and I wanted the first ascent. ...
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Three F's for Jany28-Jan-2010
I still never finish a climbing trip without planning the next one. For 20 years, climbing is what has kept me mentally and physically driven. In Janua......
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What's at the root of the name of the route?27-Jan-2010Mount Saint Elias was named in honor of an Old Testament prophet, given the name by the Russian explorer Vitus Bering who, presumably, was a religious......
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For the Birds15-Dec-2009I was nearly nodding off at the belay when I heard it. The sun sets early in Yosemite Valley, especially in the dregs of October, and we had been racing the darkness -- and mostly losing -- every night on the Nose of El Capitan....
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Topropers Unite!04-Dec-2009The fine art of sending your dream routes without really trying
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The Recreational Life20-Oct-2009It was a hot and relentless summer in Moab, but Lyzz and I were hanging tough, trying to pry a living out of a tourist economy. I guided, and Lyzz too......
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The Cruxiest Move20-Oct-2009By the time you read this, I'll be married, which for most people is a welcome event, a joyous occasion. That's the public face I put on it, because t......
America's Best Climbing Area: Red River Gorge
It took the spotlight of the Petzl Roctrip to show what the locals already knew: The Red River Gorge is America's Best Climbing Area.








