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DR. J Medical Advice

Body

  • Body: Pain Meds vs Sex
  • Appendectomy and Climbing Training
  • Body: Injury Truths
  • Body: BPA and Waterbottles
  • Body: Bouldering for Bone Density
  • Body: Chronic Injury
  • Body: Bouldering for the Bones
  • Body: Antibiotics and Tendon Damage

    • Back

  • Back: Spinal Fracture
  • Back: Preventing Hunchback
  • Back: Herniated Disc

    • Abdomen

  • Abdomen: Muscle Tear/Hernia

    • Arm

    No items found.

    Shoulder

  • Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Shoulder: Frozen Shoulder
  • Shoulder: Torn Labrum, SLAP Lesion
  • Shoulder: Separation
  • Shoulder: Pain and Virus

    • Biceps

    No items found.

    Elbow

  • Elbow: Tennis Elbow
  • Elbow: Medial Tendonosis
  • Elbow: DR. J's Dodgy Elbows
  • Elbow: Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Medial Epicondylosis and Taping
  • Elbow: Tingling and Numbness
  • Elbows: Minimizing Fingerboard Injuries
  • Elbow: Medial Epicondyle Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Stress Fracture
  • Elbow: Pain and Hangboarding

    • Wrist

  • Wrist: Klienbock's Disease
  • Wrist: Ruptured Tendon
  • Snap, Crackle, Wrist
  • Wrist: Fractured Scaphoid
  • Wrist: Instability

    • Hand

  • Stressed-Out Fingers
  • Hands: Dupuytren's Disease (lump in palm)
  • Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome

    • Fingers

  • Fingers: What To Do with a Ruptured Flexor Digitorum Superficialis
  • Stressed-Out Fingers
  • Fingers: Hyper-extended
  • Fingers: Cysts and Pain
  • Fingers: Cracked Fingertips
  • Fingers: De Quervain's Tenosynovitis
  • Fingers: NSAID Treatment
  • Fingers: Torn A2 Pulley
  • Fingers: Trigger Thumb Syndrome
  • Fingers: Stiffness, Soreness
  • Fingers: Grip Position and Injury
  • Fingers: Pinky Finger Pain
  • Fingers: Electrostimulation
  • Fingers: Cortisone for Tendon Injuries
  • Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Fingers: Taping Truths
  • Fingers: Flappers
  • Fingers: Trigger-Finger Syndrome
  • Fingers: Torn A3 and A4 Pulleys
  • Fingers: Cysts
  • Fingers: Arthritis
  • Fingers: Numbness
  • Fingers: Blown Tendons

    • Leg

  • Leg: Achilles Tendonitis
  • Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Leg: Pulled Hamstring
  • Leg: Fracture

    • Knee

  • Knee: Rockfall Causes Lump
  • Knee: Chondral Injury of the Lateral Tibial Plateau
  • Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Knee: Ruptured ACL
  • Knee: Ruptured Ligament and Meniscus
  • Knee: Synovial Cartilage Damage

    • Ankle

  • America's Best Climbing Area: Red River Gorge
  • Loud Pop Ankle Roll

    • Feet

  • Feet: Broken Foot
  • Feet: Gout and Pseudogout
  • Feet: Toe Fracture
    • Mountain Games

    Gear Reviews

    Destinations

    EVEREST 2008
    Climbers on the world's highest mountain have been particularly challenged this season -- not by altitude, weather or even the stream of guided climbers who clog the camps and flanks of Everest like cholesterol in the artery to the summit. This season the crux could be getting past the cops now posted around the base and at Camp II (21,300 feet) on the Nepal side.
    Video Spotlight
    Pusher Sack Review
    Pusher Sack Review
    Photo Galleries
    Pinnacles, California/Jim Thornburg
    The Cobra Den: India in HD
    2012 Petzl RocTrip in HD—Argentina
    Grampians, Australia/Keith Ladzinski

    Free Digital Isssue

    Rock and Ice Issue #209

    Rock and Ice Issue #209

    Table Of Contents:
    Body
    Medical Advice for Rock Climbers
    Shoulder
    Shoulder Injury From Rock Climbing
    Elbow
    Typical Elbow Injuries For Rock Climbers
    Wrist
    Wrist Injuries For Rock Climbers
    Fingers
    Common Rock Climbing Finger Injuries
    Abdomen
    Rock Climbing Abdomen Injuries
    Leg
    Rock Climbing Leg Injuries
    Knee
    Commen Knee Injuries Caused By Rock Climbing
    Ankle
    Rock Climbing Ankle Injuries
    Feet
    Feet Injuries Caused By Rock Climbing

    Climb Safe

    Surviving Climbing's Diciest Business: Rappelling
    Climb long enough and you’ll have a close encounter ... or several. Mine was in 1986 at Arches National Monument, five minutes up the black- top north of Moab.

    Features

    John Long: The Real Deal
    The tao of Paul gleason, Stonemaster Emeritus.
    Red Dihedral (IV 5.10b)
    Some routes or formations you climb for a physical challenge, and some because they are beautiful, but some things you climb because they explode out of the ground like granite rockets promising to take you to the moon. That’s the initial allure of the Incredible Hulk (11,040 feet) on the east side of the California Sierras.
    The Prophet
    In 2001, Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles made an audacious ground-up, no-drill, on-sight attempt to free climb a new route on El Cap. Nine years later, The Prophet finally spoke.
    An Encounter with Fred
    Joe Josephson phoned with an interesting proposal: Fred Beckey had come to town for a reunion of Montana's Dirty Sox Club, a guild of Montana climbers from the 1960s through the 1980s.

    If anyone has earned an honorary membership in a group named Dirty Sox it is Washington's Fred Beckey, sovereign of American DirtBag Climbers.
    Valandre Swing 700
    Price | $368 www.valandre.com/us 4 starsDUCKS CAN'T GET a break. From birth we are taught that they are inferior to their rival, geese. There's the goos...
    House Ad: Guides

    Medical Advice

    Body: Chronic Injury
    I have been climbing for 18 years and suffer from different injuries that come and go every year. I am not sure if I need to start doing some cross training (I usually hurt myself when I try) or change my diet, etc.

    Training Tips

    Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
    As an older climber with a long history of climbing and athletics, I find that age, lifestyle, work commitments and other responsibilities have been taking their toll on performance.

    Gear Advice

    How to Remove an Old Bolt
    What is the best way to chop a rusty quarter-inch split-shank Rawl bolt? The crowbar is trashing the rock, and the bolt isn't moving. The bolt is placed in a dish, so I can't get a hacksaw in there. Can I use a cold chisel? Any other ideas?

    Press Release

    Get Digital Accidents in North America FREE!31-Dec-2012

    Rock and Ice and the American Alpine Club (AAC) have teamed up to create a new online educationa..

    Wild Country Recalls Helium Carabiner31-Dec-2012

    Wild Country is issuing a voluntary recall on certain batches of Helium carabiners delivered aft..

    Wild Country Recalls Ropeman31-Dec-2012

    Wild Country recalled their Ropeman 3 ascender which although passing all required CE EN standards h..

    Ascent
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