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DR. J Medical Advice

Body

  • Body: Pain Meds vs Sex
  • Appendectomy and Climbing Training
  • Body: Injury Truths
  • Body: BPA and Waterbottles
  • Body: Bouldering for Bone Density
  • Body: Chronic Injury
  • Body: Bouldering for the Bones
  • Body: Antibiotics and Tendon Damage

    • Back

  • Back: Spinal Fracture
  • Back: Preventing Hunchback
  • Back: Herniated Disc

    • Abdomen

  • Abdomen: Muscle Tear/Hernia

    • Arm

    No items found.

    Shoulder

  • Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Shoulder: Frozen Shoulder
  • Shoulder: Torn Labrum, SLAP Lesion
  • Shoulder: Separation
  • Shoulder: Pain and Virus

    • Biceps

    No items found.

    Elbow

  • Elbow: Tennis Elbow
  • Elbow: Medial Tendonosis
  • Elbow: DR. J's Dodgy Elbows
  • Elbow: Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Medial Epicondylosis and Taping
  • Elbow: Tingling and Numbness
  • Elbows: Minimizing Fingerboard Injuries
  • Elbow: Medial Epicondyle Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Stress Fracture
  • Elbow: Pain and Hangboarding

    • Wrist

  • Wrist: Klienbock's Disease
  • Wrist: Ruptured Tendon
  • Snap, Crackle, Wrist
  • Wrist: Fractured Scaphoid
  • Wrist: Instability

    • Hand

  • Stressed-Out Fingers
  • Hands: Dupuytren's Disease (lump in palm)
  • Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome

    • Fingers

  • Fingers: What To Do with a Ruptured Flexor Digitorum Superficialis
  • Stressed-Out Fingers
  • Fingers: Hyper-extended
  • Fingers: Cysts and Pain
  • Fingers: Cracked Fingertips
  • Fingers: De Quervain's Tenosynovitis
  • Fingers: NSAID Treatment
  • Fingers: Torn A2 Pulley
  • Fingers: Trigger Thumb Syndrome
  • Fingers: Stiffness, Soreness
  • Fingers: Grip Position and Injury
  • Fingers: Pinky Finger Pain
  • Fingers: Electrostimulation
  • Fingers: Cortisone for Tendon Injuries
  • Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Fingers: Taping Truths
  • Fingers: Flappers
  • Fingers: Trigger-Finger Syndrome
  • Fingers: Torn A3 and A4 Pulleys
  • Fingers: Cysts
  • Fingers: Arthritis
  • Fingers: Numbness
  • Fingers: Blown Tendons

    • Leg

  • Leg: Achilles Tendonitis
  • Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Leg: Pulled Hamstring
  • Leg: Fracture

    • Knee

  • Knee: Rockfall Causes Lump
  • Knee: Chondral Injury of the Lateral Tibial Plateau
  • Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Knee: Ruptured ACL
  • Knee: Ruptured Ligament and Meniscus
  • Knee: Synovial Cartilage Damage

    • Ankle

  • America's Best Climbing Area: Red River Gorge
  • Loud Pop Ankle Roll

    • Feet

  • Feet: Broken Foot
  • Feet: Gout and Pseudogout
  • Feet: Toe Fracture
    • Mountain Games

    Gear Reviews

    Destinations

    Routes Less Traveled
    No chalk, no people, no waits: The 5 best Yosemite moderates off the beaten track | By Lizzy Scully, Photos by Keith Ladzinski
    Video Spotlight
    Pusher Sack Review
    Pusher Sack Review
    Photo Galleries
    Justin Jefferson Gallery
    Kolin Powick Gallery
    Mill Creek HD-Rock & Ice Photo Camp
    Kolin Powick Gallery

    Free Digital Isssue

    Rock and Ice Issue #209

    Rock and Ice Issue #209

    Table Of Contents:
    Body
    Medical Advice for Rock Climbers
    Shoulder
    Shoulder Injury From Rock Climbing
    Elbow
    Typical Elbow Injuries For Rock Climbers
    Wrist
    Wrist Injuries For Rock Climbers
    Fingers
    Common Rock Climbing Finger Injuries
    Abdomen
    Rock Climbing Abdomen Injuries
    Leg
    Rock Climbing Leg Injuries
    Knee
    Commen Knee Injuries Caused By Rock Climbing
    Ankle
    Rock Climbing Ankle Injuries
    Feet
    Feet Injuries Caused By Rock Climbing

    Climb Safe

    Surviving Climbing's Diciest Business: Rappelling
    Climb long enough and you’ll have a close encounter ... or several. Mine was in 1986 at Arches National Monument, five minutes up the black- top north of Moab.

    Features

    John Long: Mountains of Trouble
    The cement-bucket drop test, swami belts and the beginning of the end of a fabled climbing club.
    Monster Jacks
    Bouldering and sport climbing at the mystical Peruvian hotspot Hatun Machay.
    John Long: A Man for All Seasons
    The myth of Oliver Moon changed the face of Yosemite climbing forever.
    An Encounter with Fred
    Joe Josephson phoned with an interesting proposal: Fred Beckey had come to town for a reunion of Montana's Dirty Sox Club, a guild of Montana climbers from the 1960s through the 1980s.

    If anyone has earned an honorary membership in a group named Dirty Sox it is Washington's Fred Beckey, sovereign of American DirtBag Climbers.
    Five Ten Dragon Rock Shoe Review
    When Five Ten released the original Dragon, which sported a Velcro closure system and an aggressive, down-turned toe box, the shoe gained a following among core cave dwellers and others dabbling in the thuggish art of steep climbing.
    House Ad: Guides

    Medical Advice

    Back: Spinal Fracture
    Two months ago I was climbing in Rifle Mountain Park and fell from 20 feet straight onto my ass, and broke my right arm (out of the cast now, and fine), and my L1 and L2 vertebrae. The L2 break was not serious, but the L1 was a burst fracture and pushed out into the spinal column.

    Training Tips

    HowTo Use Microcycles
    Last winter I followed a basic periodized program. Now I want to take things further. I'm clear on the idea of breaking your training up into microcycles and prioritizing them toward either strength or endurance.

    Gear Advice

    Will Antifreeze Ruin Rope?
    Last April I took a trip to Alaska and rented an RV for the month.  We stored our gear in the shower, which one day back-flushed.  My rope g...

    Press Release

    Get Digital Accidents in North America FREE!31-Dec-2012

    Rock and Ice and the American Alpine Club (AAC) have teamed up to create a new online educationa..

    Wild Country Recalls Helium Carabiner31-Dec-2012

    Wild Country is issuing a voluntary recall on certain batches of Helium carabiners delivered aft..

    Wild Country Recalls Ropeman31-Dec-2012

    Wild Country recalled their Ropeman 3 ascender which although passing all required CE EN standards h..

    Ascent
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