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Training During Pregnancy02-Feb-2010
I am a 20-year-old woman, six months pregnant and a passionate climber. I’ve been climbing for three years, and already have a 2-year-old daughter. ...
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Using Your Hangboard the Right Way02-Feb-2010
After recent miserable sport climbing performances, I’m finally knuckling down to address my weaknesses—and use the hangboard I bought 18 months ago! A friend said to build up to 30 seconds on, 30 off, but everyone else suggested hangs of up to eight seconds....
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Maximizing a Small Home Wall02-Feb-2010
Can you outline a training regimen for the home-wall climber?...
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How to Stay Psyched02-Feb-2010
Set some goals. Write them down. Training without goals is like coffee without caffeine—pointless. ...
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How to Prevent Bonking02-Feb-2010
Eating small meals helps keep my energy level up but I'm drained by 4 p.m., while large meals keep me satisfied but sluggish. What are some of the best foods to eat at the crag to feel energized throughout the day?...
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Using a Weight Belt For Training02-Feb-2010
Does it help to use a weight belt to increase endurance, or should weight only be added when training strength and power?...
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Regaining Confidence After a Fall29-Jan-2010
Last year I took a groundfall while trad climbing, which resulted in a compression fracture in one of my vertebrae. I hope to use this experience to b......
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Dynamic vs. Static Stretching29-Jan-2010
Should I only do dynamic mobility exercises as part of my warm-up? Recent studies suggest that static stretches temporarily relax the muscles and redu......
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Overcome Anxiety and Send!29-Jan-2010
I want to climb my first 5.13a but I keep getting bouted by the redpoint demons. Last year I abandoned a project because, after six days of effort, I ......
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The Importance of Finger Strength29-Jan-2010
Malcolm Smith said, Finger strength is everything and if you lay down a foundation back in 1992 at the age of 18. ...
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Do Forearm Trainers Work?29-Jan-2010
I have seen quite a few forearm strengtheners on the market. Is any one better than the other in terms of results?...
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Maximum Training in Minimum Time29-Jan-2010
The arrival of summer means climbing trips. How would one train to be able to climb as much as possible during a finite period?...
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Dialing in Crampon Technique28-Jan-2010
I'm flummoxed by mixed climbing technique, specifically the footwork. Can you give me some tips for using crampons on rock? - Wes Walker | Carbondale, ......
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Ultimate Strength28-Jan-2010In last year's Health Issue (No. 167), I detailed a three-month training program that included strength, power and power-endurance. While most people ......
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Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach28-Jan-2010
Most long-term training programs attempt to coordinate physical, mental and skill cycles to produce a period of peak performance. ...
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The Secrets of Warming Up28-Jan-2010
I understand the importance of getting pumped as part of your warm-up for onsighting, but what is the best way to warm up?...
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Beat the Ice-Climbing Pump28-Jan-2010
I don't think I'm alone in feeling like I get way more pumped ice climbing than rock climbing. How do you beat the pump when you are on ice?...
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Resting the Perfect Amount15-Dec-2009
How long should I rest between burns?...
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How To Recover On Route15-Dec-2009
Does the G-Tox method for shaking out on routes work? Any other advice for getting the best recovery in a strenuous position, without waving your arms......
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Does Creatine Work?15-Dec-2009
Everyone is talking about creatine, but I've heard it causes major water retention, which cancels out any strength gains. Is this yet another case of climbers experimenting with supplements that only work for weight-lifting or bodybuilding? ...
California's Big House
Sport fanatics are (finally) on the loose at Jailhouse Rock.








