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Can Old Guys Get Stronger?04-Dec-2009
As an older climber with a long history of climbing and athletics, I find that age, lifestyle, work commitments and other responsibilities have been taking their toll on performance....
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Recovery Supplement Truths04-Dec-2009
What do you think about drinking recovery supplements, such as whey protein or glutamine, throughout a day of cragging? ...
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Euro Training Secrets04-Dec-2009
What do the Euros know that we don't? How did they get so good?...
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How to Beat Fear21-Oct-2009
I learned to climb in the 1970s, before sport climbing. Back then, many climbs were dangerous and falling was taboo. Because of that early experience,......
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How Often Should You Rest?21-Oct-2009
I climb three or four days a week on average. What's the best combination of rest days and climbing days?...
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Training With an Injury21-Oct-2009
How can I continue to train with a hurt finger?...
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Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump20-Oct-2009
I get pumped really quickly while I’m placing gear. Any tips for avoiding the trad burn?...
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How to Develop Sloper Strength20-Oct-2009
What's the best and easiest way to develop crusher sloper strength, and what's the best way to grip a sloper?...
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Warming Up Without Warm-Ups20-Oct-2009
I have a project at a crag that has only hard (for me) routes. All the routes have low cruxes, right off the ground, as well as hard, tweaky climbing throughout. How do I warm up at a place with no warm-ups? ...
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Beating the Lactic Acid Pump20-Oct-2009
After lowering off a very pumpy climb, can I speed my recovery by running or doing pushups? I heard that light aerobic exercise immediately following a climb helps flush lactic acid out of the forearms by pumping blood through the body....
Origin of Species: Fontainebleau
A leading American tours the birthplace of bouldering, Fontainebleau, France, and reports on how for a hundred years “Font” has been the stage for the most difficult moves on rock.








