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El Cajon Climbing Crag Bolts Chopped30-Nov-2010
San Diego's premier crag, El Cajon, has been targeted by an individual bent on removing or destroying fixed anchors and bolts. According to local Chris Hubbard, who co-authored the San Diego County Climbing Guide with Dave Kennedy, the vandal has chopped 16 100-foot sport pitches at El Cajon and several routes at Mission Gorge....
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Climbing Dark Star, a Sierra Classic30-Nov-2010
There's nothing wrong with spending a summer in Vancouver when Squamish is your backyard, I just wanted more this year. Then the phone rang.
"Come to California," Trev said. "We'll climb some real mountains. There's a couple of Grade Vs I want to get on."... -
Rock Climbing and Bouldering in Mongolia04-Nov-2010Mongolia was everything he wanted, until something went wrong. Nathan Smith journeys to Mongolia in seek of first ascents on the crags and boulders there....
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Destination Sinks Canyon Wyoming04-Nov-2010On the day of the Summer Solstice, it was windy, dry and cool at Sinks Canyon, just outside Lander, Wyoming. A small band of climbers were enjoying perfect conditions at the area's choicest wall, the Killer Cave....
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Defying the Red Rock Bolt Ban04-Nov-2010Long, airy moderates like Prince of Darkness (5.10c), Epinephrine (5.9) and Crimson Chrysalis (5.8) made Red Rock Canyon famous. But what most climbers don't know about this 196,000-acre national conservation area just outside of Las Vegas is how much more potential it has -- and yet, more unfortunately, how much potential there is to lose....
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Black Canyon of the Gunnison, The Diagonal Epic01-Oct-2010In the spring of 1975, the teenage Earl Wiggins and John Sherwood met me in Moab to climb the first ascent of Negro Bill Flake and other routes. After that, Earl decided to blow off high school and hitchhike to Yosemite. ...
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Creatures of Feature10-Sep-2010The thought of a 200-pound cougar lurking somewhere in the old-growth cedars injected a spring into my step as I battled up the steep back-side trail on Squamish Chief. This dome-shaped mountain and its gorgeous granite walls loom over the 100-year-old logging town of Squamish, nestled at the head of an inlet on British Columbia's lush West Coast. ...
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Seeking Life After Death01-Jul-2010FOUR YEARS AFTER Dean Potter made the first free ascent of the immaculately cleaved Epitaph (5.13) just outside Moab, Utah, Brian Kimball sacked up f......
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Hyalite Canyon Access in Danger01-Jul-2010Ice climbers in Montana are getting ready to pull off their gloves: not to clip a screw, but to keep access to Hyalite Canyon....
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Free Will in Purgatory01-Jul-2010In late November, Mike Doyle redpointed Lucifer (5.14c), a long-standing project at the Purgatory crag, to establish what is now considered the hardest route in the Red River Gorge....
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WAR IN PATAGONIA!30-Jun-2010RYAN NELSON AND CRYSTAL DAVIS-ROBBINS, both of Colorado, established a 3,300-foot new route on the unclimbed south face of La Aguja de L'S (7,660 feet......
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Moonlight Rising30-Jun-2010ALL-FEMALE TEAM FREE CLIMBS ZION CLASSIC!...
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THE NORTH WIND AND THE SUN29-Jun-2010BY STEVE HOUSEEDITOR'S NOTE: Colin Haley, 22, and Steve House, 36, completed a new route on Mount Robson's famous Emperor Face, aka The King, reachi......
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Solar Eclipse29-Jun-2010PUT UP BY the British powerhouse Ben Moon, the boulder problem Eclipse, a bulgy arete in Little Cottonwood Canyon amid the talent pool of Salt Lake, h......
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Shattered Glass29-Jun-2010BY SARAH GARLICKNORTH CAROLINA'S LOOKING GLASS Rock offers East Coast climbers a rare taste of granite wall climbing. Set in the Pisgah National Fores......
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Black Sheep29-Jun-2010Wharton entering the crux (5.13) of the Black Canyon's hardest free pitch to date, and (below) one move later, the real business.IN AP...In April, Josh Wharton and Mike Pennings completed The Black Sheep (5.12 A0), a new route in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado. Originally Pennings' vision, the line took the two three years to finish. ...
Mountain of Clark
Climb Till Your Forearms Explode and You Fall 80 Feet at the Country's Best (And Hardest) Sport Crag.








