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Patz on the Back28-Jun-2010IN THE UPPER REACHES OF Boulder Canyon, in an area called Upper Dream Canyon, is an awesome crack with a convoluted history....
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Seeing Perfect Visionary25-Jun-2010Fourteen years is a long time for a major free route in Yosemite to go unrepeated. On October 3, Tommy Caldwell made the second free ascent of the Dir......
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JAWS II25-Jun-2010It took 35 days, or maybe more. “I stopped counting after I knew it was going to take me a while just to do the moves,” says Vasiliy “Vasya” Vorotnikov of his efforts on the Rumney, New Hampshire, route he calls Jaws II (5.15a)....
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R' is for Rant24-Jun-2010
The ABC’s of Rating Dangerous Climbs....
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Cold War18-Jun-2010What do sitting through an ice comp and a recital of Bach's Brandenburg concertos have in common? A: They seem brilliant after the fact, but during them you have to mainline espresso beans to stay propped upright....
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TRAD-MIXED LIVES FREE12-Apr-2010New England’s Meanest Winter Streak...
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EVEREST 200809-Apr-2010
Climbers on the world's highest mountain have been particularly challenged this season -- not by altitude, weather or even the stream of guided climbers who clog the camps and flanks of Everest like cholesterol in the artery to the summit. This season the crux could be getting past the cops now posted around the base and at Camp II (21,300 feet) on the Nepal side....
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Monster Jacks30-Mar-2010Bouldering and sport climbing at the mystical Peruvian hotspot Hatun Machay....
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Border Country24-Feb-2010
The ring of a hammer hitting a drill bit bounced down Gunsight Gully in Yosemite. Mad Dog's mullet flapped in the breeze as he swore about having to sink another bristler. Balanced at a small stance with the help of two hooks, Mad Dog (née Dana Drummond) wailed on the drill. ...
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Wabi Sabi29-Jan-2010
I landed in Austin on July 3rd at 7 p.m. The pilot announced that it was 101 degrees. The heat index was 109.EP, a droll Irish Texan, son of a cop, mi......
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¡Prohibido Escalar!29-Jan-2010
First hemisphere-wide access meeting to be held at the Squamish Mountain Festival....
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Good Ice Hunting28-Jan-2010Who says global warming is putting the kibosh on ice climbing? Certainly not a small but active crew of climbers in Virginia....
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Cochamó Madness28-Jan-2010
2009 season highlighted by the first free ascent of Cerro Capicúa, 4,000-foot 5.12d....
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Suffer and Be Merry27-Jan-2010
Eastern versions of the new old tradition...
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Game On14-Dec-2009
"The best story I know of Bridalveil Falls," says Vince Anderson, "involves a couple of friends who ended up in an all-night chase through the forest, eventually eluding the police."...
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Close But No Cigar24-Sep-2009
In 1981 John Bachar cast off into the uncharted expanse of Mendlicott Dome, a steep 500-foot, knob-spackled granite face in Tuolumne Meadows, California, with nothing but a hand drill and bolts, some slings, hooks and cams. Climbing onsight and belayed by Dave Yerian, he established the litmus test for runout climbing, the Bachar-Yerian (5.11c R)....
Game On
"The best story I know of Bridalveil Falls," says Vince Anderson, "involves a couple of friends who ended up in an all-night chase through the forest, eventually eluding the police."








