TNB: The Fish Cheat and the Prince of Climbing20-Feb-2013
Amid the rot of professional sports, there's a Prince beyond reproach. ...20-Feb-2013
TNB: A Letter from Santa... I mean Sharma12-Feb-2013
Chris Sharma doesn’t want to get “overwhelmed by taking it all too seriously…” But, as climbers, we do like to take it seriously. We want to debate why Sharma didn’t send La Dura Dura (5.15c) first! ...12-Feb-2013
TNB: Traveler's Advisory: El Potrero Chico, Mexico04-Feb-2013
Recent violence near Potrero Chico confirms that the region is potentially unsafe for climbers....04-Feb-2013
18 Murdered Near Potrero29-Jan-2013
At least 18 people have been murdered and buried or thrown down a well near Potrero Chico, a well-known climbing area in Northern Mexico. ...29-Jan-2013
TNB: A Year Ago: Athol29-Jan-2013
Sometimes Andrew Lindblade, shaken by a near miss or just discouraged during a bad day in the mountains, would tell Athol Whimp that was it. “I’m retiring,” he’d say. Whimp, the other half of that powerful, intuitive climbing partnership, paid no attention. Whimp knew, Lindblade told me recently, to laugh at doubt....29-Jan-2013
TNB: UIAA Issues Bizzare Indictment of Sport Climbing21-Jan-2013
The UIAA is the international driving force to get climbing into the Olympics, and influences the sport in other ways such as setting competition standards for anti-doping.
It was with great interest, then, that I read the report, UIAA Policy on the Preservation of Natural Rock for Adventure Climbing, issued late last year. ...21-Jan-2013
TNB: Gun Control14-Jan-2013
I’ll never forget my first real gun, a seven-shot Ithaca .410 pump shotgun. It was a surprise Christmas present from Mack, my alcoholic grandfather who, in the 1950s, had murdered a black musician with a ball peen hammer when the guy rolled into Mack’s Paris, Texas gas station asking for a battery charge after hours. Apparently, the man had been rude. ...14-Jan-2013
TNB: What's the Problem?08-Jan-2013
If you ask climbers what our favorite part of climbing is, we would say solving problems. Well, we might actually say, “slaying the Gnar,” or “sending the chronicles of Gnarnia with advanced kneebar techgnarlogy,” or even just, “taking a dump on a route,” but we all mean the same thing, and that is we enjoy figuring out solutions to vertical challenges....08-Jan-2013
TNB: Derek Hersey's Magic Carpet08-Jan-2013
The tank top grew worn and faded while enduring numerous ropeless jaunts from Eldo to Yosemite. I like to picture Stevie’s screen-printed image high on the Redgarden wall, moviIn 1985, the legendary British free soloist Derek Hersey witnessed Stevie Ray Vaughan pour his soul into a beat up Fender Stratocaster. Stevie was at the height of his powers, having just cut his second studio album, Couldn’t Stand the Weather. Derek was pretty impressed, I assume, because on his way out, the thrifty Brit splurged and purchased an SRV-tour tank top. ...08-Jan-2013
TNB: The Apprentices02-Jan-2013
"Oh no!" Randy thought, or so he'd tell us later, as he skied down from the top of Sunlight Mountain at dawn in storm. "Alison's going to kill me! I've lost the intern!" At Rock and Ice we usually have an intern around, writing and helping in different ways; and intern mortality and well-being are good things to be concerned about. ...02-Jan-2013
TNB: The Jungle18-Dec-2012
From my vantage beneath a steep bouldering wall at the Movement climbing gym, called by some “the best crag in Boulder,” I sat hypnotized by the sight of a tight little package, all hot with hair full of body and bounce, pumping an elliptical machine. I enjoyed this nice moment until the guy (jerk) next to her diverted my attention....18-Dec-2012
TNB: Klem Loskot is Back Climbing V15 and 5.1517-Dec-2012
Klem Loskot talks about his return to the top of the game....17-Dec-2012
Bouldering was climbing's highest art form. Then it was regimented. Can the pure experience be reclaimed?...15-Dec-2012
TNB: The Hurt Locker13-Dec-2012
Climbers are always “injured,” and we endure these perpetually compromised states with the grace of a World Cup soccer player writhing around on the ground like he was just stabbed in the groin with a fork. Fingers, elbows, shoulders, knees, ankles, skin, balls and brains—you can be sure that, among climbers, at least one of these things is either sore, torn or simply just not working.
TNB: Baddest Climb of the Year14-Nov-2012
What’s the most impressive unclimbed line on an 8,000-meter peak? Before July 15 many climbers would have said it was the Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat (8,126-meters/26,660 feet). ...14-Nov-2012
TNB: Crossfit Misfit01-Nov-2012
My coworker Andrew has a little joke. “How do you know someone does CrossFit?
“Because they tell you.”...01-Nov-2012
Climb Safe: How Strong Are Himalayan Fixed Lines?
To help make more climbers safer climbers, Rock and Ice has teamed up with Black Diamond Equipment to present the Climb Safe series.These articles aim to answer some of climbing's most common gear-related questions. Here, Kolin Powick, Black Diamond’s Director of Quality, looks into fixed ropes from the Himalayas.