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Gasherbrum I - Winter 2011
Gasherbrum I - Winter 2011

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John Long: Channel Surfing
As far back as I could remember I’d wondered which of mankind’s faiths and illusions I could choose as my sustaining light, and I’d chosen the greatest existential pathology of them all: that if I worked hard enough, and smartly enough, my greatest challenges would someday flow effortlessly under my hands like glassy Malibu swells.
The Prophet
In 2001, Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles made an audacious ground-up, no-drill, on-sight attempt to free climb a new route on El Cap. Nine years later, The Prophet finally spoke.
Kemple and Lindner Almost Free El Nino
In mid-October Tim Kemple and Chris Lindner almost made the sixth ascent of El Niño (VI 5.13c A0), the Huber brothers 1998 free variation to the North America Wall on Yosemite’s El Capitan.
An Encounter with Fred
Joe Josephson phoned with an interesting proposal: Fred Beckey had come to town for a reunion of Montana's Dirty Sox Club, a guild of Montana climbers from the 1960s through the 1980s.

If anyone has earned an honorary membership in a group named Dirty Sox it is Washington's Fred Beckey, sovereign of American DirtBag Climbers.
Black Diamond Apollo Lantern
Light is symbolic of everything good in our world, not to mention that it's useful. We pragmatic, weight-conscious, nit picky, gear-snobby climbers now have two new pocket lights to help us get through the darkest moments of our pointless existences: the Black Diamond Apollo Lantern. and the Coleman Exponent Lithium Pack-Away Lantern.

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