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Bouldering in Ubatuba
Bouldering in Ubatuba

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John Long: Channel Surfing
As far back as I could remember I’d wondered which of mankind’s faiths and illusions I could choose as my sustaining light, and I’d chosen the greatest existential pathology of them all: that if I worked hard enough, and smartly enough, my greatest challenges would someday flow effortlessly under my hands like glassy Malibu swells.
Superwuss (5.10), Black Canyon
“If I ever did a first ascent,” my friend Brandi said, “I would call it Super Wuss.” After belaying Brandi for nearly an hour as she hung, battled and grunted up the red 5.6 at the Boulder Rock Club, I could see that she was probably not destined for new routing. But the name made me laugh, and I thought it deserved a home on a future first ascent.
Dave Waggoner 1955-2009
Dave Waggoner, a mountaineering warrior and the inventor of Alien cams, died of cancer on October 7, at age 53, in his home in Laramie, Wyoming.
A Short Walk With Whillans
The Legendary British Climber on the Eiger.
Five Ten Anasazi Lace-Up Shoe Reveiw
★★★½ The Pink is a reincarnation of Five Ten’s Anasazi Lace-Up, one of the most innovative and iconic rock shoes ever. The Lace-Up had its heyday in the early to mid-1990s when it quickly became the go-to shoe for standard-setting climbers in America and Europe (who weren’t sponsored by other shoe companies).

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