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AAC Universal Belay Standard - Part 1
AAC Universal Belay Standard - Part 1



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John Long: Channel Surfing
As far back as I could remember I’d wondered which of mankind’s faiths and illusions I could choose as my sustaining light, and I’d chosen the greatest existential pathology of them all: that if I worked hard enough, and smartly enough, my greatest challenges would someday flow effortlessly under my hands like glassy Malibu swells.
Superwuss (5.10), Black Canyon
“If I ever did a first ascent,” my friend Brandi said, “I would call it Super Wuss.” After belaying Brandi for nearly an hour as she hung, battled and grunted up the red 5.6 at the Boulder Rock Club, I could see that she was probably not destined for new routing. But the name made me laugh, and I thought it deserved a home on a future first ascent.
Offwidth Hombre
A series of number-three Big Bros spanned the crack below Marin, and the crack was so steep he couldn’t wedge his body into it. If I blow it, he thought, and they all blow out, I’m dead.
Arco Climbing Comp, the Face of 2010
The mighty Grimer and the world's best climbers square off at Arco.
CAMP Vector Nanotech
These are the lightest steel crampons in the world. Paired with Scarpa's new super-light Phantom Guide (reviewed here), they create a performance combo that nearly competes with a fruit boot, but is warmer, and more versatile.

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