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James Pearson Climbs Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-), Indian Creek, Utah
James Pearson Climbs Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-), Indian Creek, Utah



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John Long: Channel Surfing
As far back as I could remember I’d wondered which of mankind’s faiths and illusions I could choose as my sustaining light, and I’d chosen the greatest existential pathology of them all: that if I worked hard enough, and smartly enough, my greatest challenges would someday flow effortlessly under my hands like glassy Malibu swells.
Superwuss (5.10), Black Canyon
“If I ever did a first ascent,” my friend Brandi said, “I would call it Super Wuss.” After belaying Brandi for nearly an hour as she hung, battled and grunted up the red 5.6 at the Boulder Rock Club, I could see that she was probably not destined for new routing. But the name made me laugh, and I thought it deserved a home on a future first ascent.
Climber Eric Brand Dies
On September 30, Eric Brand went into the home he shared with his wife, Carol, in Silver City, New Mexico, lay down on the couch and never woke up. Throughout his 50 years, Eric followed his own path with intensity and determination, and it is difficult to grasp that someone with so much passion for living on the edge could leave in so peaceful a way.
TNB: American Dirtbag
Where are all the dirtbags? I'm not talking about these imposter dirtbags, the new-age lurkers taking up all the parking spots at Camp 4, Indian Creek and Miguel's Pizza with their pimped-out, Direct TV-receiving Sprinter vans that look like college dorm rooms on 26s.
Black Diamond Camalot Review
The Camalot was the original extended-range cam and, in many respects, remains the pick of the litter. Already the backbone of a lot of racks, Camalots still stack up well against all newcomers.

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