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The Story of Two Worlds Dai Koyamada V16 Sit Start
The Story of Two Worlds Dai Koyamada V16 Sit Start

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John Long: Channel Surfing
As far back as I could remember I’d wondered which of mankind’s faiths and illusions I could choose as my sustaining light, and I’d chosen the greatest existential pathology of them all: that if I worked hard enough, and smartly enough, my greatest challenges would someday flow effortlessly under my hands like glassy Malibu swells.
Defying the Red Rock Bolt Ban
Long, airy moderates like Prince of Darkness (5.10c), Epinephrine (5.9) and Crimson Chrysalis (5.8) made Red Rock Canyon famous. But what most climbers don't know about this 196,000-acre national conservation area just outside of Las Vegas is how much more potential it has -- and yet, more unfortunately, how much potential there is to lose.
Q&A: V15 Maestro Nacho Sanchez Unleashed
Nacho Sanchez goes against the grain. Hailing from Spain, best known for its sport climbing, Sanchez prefers his country’s boulders to its in-vogue sport crags. He is not only leading the charge to explore the overlooked blocks of Spain, but he is also pioneering his country’s first and only V15s.
Altered State
A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance.
Mad Rock Ultra Light
CARABINERS ARE THE one piece of climbing gear you can never have enough of. Paradoxically, like socks and beer, they vanish as mysteriously as if they’d been put on a log raft and sent down the Amazon—for every two carabiners I acquire, one runs off.

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