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Chris Schulte: Back to Trad
Chris Schulte: Back to Trad



John Long Tales


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John Long: Channel Surfing
As far back as I could remember I’d wondered which of mankind’s faiths and illusions I could choose as my sustaining light, and I’d chosen the greatest existential pathology of them all: that if I worked hard enough, and smartly enough, my greatest challenges would someday flow effortlessly under my hands like glassy Malibu swells.
Defying the Red Rock Bolt Ban
Long, airy moderates like Prince of Darkness (5.10c), Epinephrine (5.9) and Crimson Chrysalis (5.8) made Red Rock Canyon famous. But what most climbers don't know about this 196,000-acre national conservation area just outside of Las Vegas is how much more potential it has -- and yet, more unfortunately, how much potential there is to lose.
No Expectations: Joe Kinder Sends 6 5.14c's in Spain
​Joe Kinder landed in California's Bay Area after returning from Spain, a two-month trip spurred by an invitation to Chris Sharma and Jimena Alarcon's wedding.

Cover photo: Javi Pec.
A Sport for All Ages
At this the most lovely old man got up at the furthest and humblest end of the hall, as he had got up on all similar occasions for the past half-century.
Big Agnes REM Insulated Pad Review
Including an air mattress in a review of breakthrough gear might seem like a stretch, until you spend a chilly night shivering instead of snoozing, and arise cadaver stiff, grumpier than hell, and unable to high step onto your project's critical, nipple-high nubbin.

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