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How to Climb Like Chris Sharma: His Tips
How to Climb Like Chris Sharma: His Tips

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John Long: What I've Learned
John Long, original Stonemaster and climbing's most popular writer, spills his guts.
Close But No Cigar
In 1981 John Bachar cast off into the uncharted expanse of Mendlicott Dome, a steep 500-foot, knob-spackled granite face in Tuolumne Meadows, California, with nothing but a hand drill and bolts, some slings, hooks and cams. Climbing onsight and belayed by Dave Yerian, he established the litmus test for runout climbing, the Bachar-Yerian (5.11c R).
Cold Justice Paul Cormier
January 24, 2005: Paul Cormier looked like a mad scientist from the North Pole. His graying hairs shot out of the sides of his brown fleece hat, their tips frosted with rime and frozen sweat.
Altered State
A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance.
Black Diamond Viper Ice Tool Review
It's easy in this new world order of knobby-handled, leashless mixed tools to lose sight of reality. While we all might fantasize about sending M11 or kicking that little (OK, he's big) Russian's behind in the Ouray mixed finals, the cold hard fact is that we need tools that will actually climb ice, and usually need leashes.

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