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Ueli Steck Speed Solo on Les Droites
Ueli Steck Speed Solo on Les Droites

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John Long: Channel Surfing
As far back as I could remember I’d wondered which of mankind’s faiths and illusions I could choose as my sustaining light, and I’d chosen the greatest existential pathology of them all: that if I worked hard enough, and smartly enough, my greatest challenges would someday flow effortlessly under my hands like glassy Malibu swells.
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New England’s Meanest Winter Streak
Close But No Cigar
In 1981 John Bachar cast off into the uncharted expanse of Mendlicott Dome, a steep 500-foot, knob-spackled granite face in Tuolumne Meadows, California, with nothing but a hand drill and bolts, some slings, hooks and cams. Climbing onsight and belayed by Dave Yerian, he established the litmus test for runout climbing, the Bachar-Yerian (5.11c R).
An Encounter with Fred
Joe Josephson phoned with an interesting proposal: Fred Beckey had come to town for a reunion of Montana's Dirty Sox Club, a guild of Montana climbers from the 1960s through the 1980s.

If anyone has earned an honorary membership in a group named Dirty Sox it is Washington's Fred Beckey, sovereign of American DirtBag Climbers.
FIXE Anchor Stations
Climbers put A LOT of energy into going up. Coming back down is an afterthought, a fact often reflected in our hodgepodge of raggedy-assed, jury-rigged rappel stations that can range from confusing messes of tat to plant hangers to hardware-store chain and links. For shame!

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