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Dani Arnold Repeats Anubis (XII 12), Ben Nevis, Scotland
Dani Arnold Repeats Anubis (XII 12), Ben Nevis, Scotland



John Long Tales


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John Long: Guilty Pleasures
Lynn Hill and I spent the winter of 1981 in Las Vegas, climbing daily at Red Rocks and plowing through nights at dead-end jobs. After roughly 10 seasons of climbing 300 days a year, my learning curve had flattened and I found myself singing the same old song.
Waimea (5.10d): Runmey, New Hampshire
I've spent the last decade traveling to the world’s best sport-climbing areas, but a recent trip to my old stomping grounds reminded me of how good we have it here at home. Rumney, New Hampshire, is a rather small area but it is stacked with over 700 sport routes spread out over 20some crags on Rattlesnake Mountain.
Hayden Kennedy: Superballistic
Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk, ages 21 and 23, had chopped a bivy ledge at the base of the final headwall on the mammoth North Face of North Twin when the storm moved in. Still trying to climb amid snow, rain, spindrift and thin pro the next morning, Hayden had a thought: “Well, maybe we should start thinking about the descent.”
Altered State
A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance.
Trango Shark Review
Trango SharkYou need a nut tool for teasing out obstinate wires; snaring inverted cams; using mini-cheat-stick-style for those just-out-of-reach place...

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