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Will Sweat Harm My Harness?15-Jan-2013
We all know that UV harms nylon, but if I sweat in my harness and I weakening it?...
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Should You Use Rope or Webbing to Connect to an Anchor?15-Jan-2013
Webbing doesn't stretch and a rope does, but does either make a difference when you are constructing a belay?...
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Choosing Between C4s and Friends15-Jan-2013
I'm a big guy, a novice, and am wondering which cam will be more reliable for me, the Black Diamond Camalot or the Wild Country Friend?...
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Can You Lead On a Static Rope?15-Jan-2013
Is a static rope just for toproping, or can you lead on it if you place gear close together and limit the distance you might fall?...
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Can I Use Climbing Bolts For Anchors in a Gym?15-Jan-2013
Climbing bolts are usually really designed for use in concrete, so if your climbing wall is made of cement, you are good to go. ...
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Are Falls Held or Breaking Strength More Important In a Rope?15-Jan-2013
Falls held and breaking strength are both important, and ideally a rope will do well in both areas, but there is a lot more to selecting a rope than simply weighing those two factors....
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Does Poop Harm a Climbing Rope?14-Jan-2013
What to do when the unthinkable happens, and how to stay sanitary out at the crag.
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Are Homemade Draws Reliable?07-Jan-2013
I have rigged my homemade draws with rubber bands to prevent the carabiners from crossloading, but I'm not sure if I am compromising my safety. Help! ...
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Shopping for Economy Carabiners19-Dec-2012
Gear Guy sounds off on budget quickdraws, wire and bar gates, and everything else relevant to making a smart carabiner purchase....
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When You Fly, Can You Carry On Climbing Gear?17-Dec-2012Ice-climbing hardware such as tools, screws and crampons will have to be checked, but what about the other stuff?...
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Can I Trust Fixed Draws?27-Feb-2012
After Todd Skinner’s death due to a broken belay loop, Black Diamond tested belay loops and slings that were 75-percent cut and they were still 90 percent of full strength...
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Which Helmet WIll Fit My Big Head?07-Mar-2011
I checked the helmet reviews and settled on the Petzl Elios, size 2. Great helmet, except it doesn't fit my noggin. Couldn't even buckle the chin strap and I had the adjustable wheel all the way open. What helmet is equal to the Elios and will fit a huge noggin?...
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Choosing Ice Screw Length07-Mar-2011
I am going to start leading ice this season, but don't know which length ice screws I should get. I only have the ducats for eight screws. Should I get long screws, or short screws, or in between?...
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Are Adjustable Leg Loops Useful?07-Mar-2011
Are adjustable leg loops actually useful? I rock climb, and ice climb some, and need a new harness. I'd rather have a less expensive and lighter harness with non-adjustable leg loops, but I've heard that you need adjustable loops to accommodate winter pants. Really?...
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Should I clip ice screws with Screamers?04-Feb-2011
Screamers are break-apart quickdraws that absorb some of the energy in a fall, but will using one on an ice screw make it less likely to rip out?...
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How do I Make a Bomber Anchor?04-Feb-2011
I work at a camp center in the Alps in France and we teach beginner climbers on one of the building's concrete walls. Until now we've used the iron beams as anchors (using a redundant sling set-up) for toproping, which is safe and works well, but it takes 40 minutes to rig. ...
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Can I Modify my Crampon Without Compromising the Integrity?04-Feb-2011
I reversed and flipped a front point on my DMM Terminators to make a heel spur. This required cutting a notch in the frame of the crampons to fit the point. Have I seriously compromised the integrity of the crampon?...
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Hot Versus Cold Forging01-Dec-2010
What variables should I consider when choosing between gear that is hot forged versus cold forged?...
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Caring For Your FIngertips01-Dec-2010
How do I heal cracked fingertips? How do I prevent them from cracking in the first place?...
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Are Sewn Slings Stronger Than Knotted Ones?01-Dec-2010
A knotted sling might appear strong because the webbing is doubled through the knot, but in actuality it is weak because the bends in the knot are stress-concentration points. ...
EVEREST 2008
Climbers on the world's highest mountain have been particularly challenged this season -- not by altitude, weather or even the stream of guided climbers who clog the camps and flanks of Everest like cholesterol in the artery to the summit. This season the crux could be getting past the cops now posted around the base and at Camp II (21,300 feet) on the Nepal side.








