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When to Replace Climbing Webbing30-Nov-2010
You come to a rappel station and upon inspecting the webbing notice that there are no cuts or wear marks, and that the nylon feels soft®almost like ne......
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Using Grip Dip To Color Code Gear30-Nov-2010
I was looking for a way to I.D. the Wallnuts I just added to my rack, and found some Grip Dip by Homax Products, Inc. I've used this type of product f......
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The Benefits of Cotton30-Nov-2010
What's the deal with cotton? If you wear it, and it gets wet, will you really die?Ralph Jones / Norman, OKThe average American can expect to live 77.9......
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How to Pull a Rappel Rope30-Nov-2010
My brother and I were rappelling the nearly vertical face of Prince of Darkness at Red Rocks. When we pulled the ropes they sailed past us and we hear......
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How to Properly Orient a Carabiner Gate30-Nov-2010
Gear Guy discusses the safety aspects of clipping a carabiner to align the gate away from the direction of climbing....
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Are My Fuzzy Quickdraws Safe?04-Nov-2010
I have been climbing on the same draws for seven years now. The nylon is kinda fuzzy, and the rope-end 'biners are worn about a quarter of the way. Is it time to replace them? They seem strong, and I've seen worse draws at the anchors of a lot of sport crags....
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How to Stretch Climbing Shoes01-Oct-2010
I have a pair of Miura VS but they have tight spots I'd like to stretch. While at a shoe demo at Smith Rock, an employee from the local gear shop stretched shoes with a broom stick and a microwave....
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Are 1/2-inch bolts really better than 3/8-inch?01-Oct-2010
Shear loading, such as you'd get on a less-than-vert wall, tests the bolt shaft's breaking (shear) strength. Tension loading, such as you'd get with a bolt placed in a roof, tests its pull-out strength....
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Should I Resole My Rock Shoes?15-Sep-2010
I have two pairs of rock shoes that are getting very slick soles. They are still in good shape, and I am wondering if I should buy new ones or resole the old ones....
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Hand Drill Advice15-Sep-2010
My wife and I are presently living in Tibet but we are getting ready to move to Mongolia. We would like to take a hand drill so we can establish routes. Any suggestions?...
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Lonely Climber Looking for Woman01-Jul-2010
I'm a 32-year and have climbed for 20 years. I send 5.14, V11 and can do about anything in the gym. But I can't find a woman....
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Is My Invented Knot Safe?01-Jul-2010
I have this knot I’ve invented, a take-off on the trace-8, and am wondering if it would weaken the rope?...
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Difference Between Double and Twin Ropes01-Jul-2010
I recently saw an experienced climber clip both of his ropes to one ice screw. I thought that you were never supposed to clip double ropes into the sa......
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Dealing With an Argumentative Partner01-Jul-2010
I have a great climbing partner, but whenever we go climbing we just seem to end up arguing and pissed off. I don't want another partner, because the one I have is solid and knows exactly how to feed me rope. What can I do?...
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Will Antifreeze Ruin Rope?30-Jun-2010
Last April I took a trip to Alaska and rented an RV for the month. We stored our gear in the shower, which one day back-flushed. My rope g......
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Why Is a Rack Called a Rack?30-Jun-2010
The word “rack” has about two dozen definitions, from destruction, to a scud of clouds, to a cut of juicy ribs, to a most buoyant part of the female anatomy capitalized on by the “restaurant” Hooters....
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Rock Shoes For a Big Guy30-Jun-2010
I have been trying to get a pair of size-18 rock shoes. Does anyone build, or is anyone willing to build, a large shoe? I sport climb barefoot, and I am reaching the point (5.12) where it is extremely difficult to progress without better traction on my feet....
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Do They Kill Geese To Get Down?30-Jun-2010
I have a goose-down jacket, which I really like because it is so light and warm, but I'm wondering if they have to kill the goose to get the feathers....
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How to Wash a Rope29-Jun-2010
First you tell us to wash our ropes in Ivory Flakes. Now, in the last issue, you said Ivory Flakes are good for washing down as well. Dude! Ivory Flakes were discontinued over 10 years ago! Any alternative suggestions for suitable soaps?...
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Do Cam Teeth Do Anything?29-Jun-2010
Manufacturers add them only because, while few of us can grasp the real magic that locks a cam into place (the constant angle), we know from experience that teeth bite....
In the Land of Myths
It's a long way to the runout routes of Meteora, a climbing area as ancient as Greek myth.








