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Can I Fix Delaminated Rock Shoes?29-Jun-2010
I was getting ready for summer up here in Canada, and noticed that I had burned through three pairs of shoes last season. My shoes delaminated on the inside toe and wore through at the toe rand. I want to salvage these shoes and protect new ones from premature death....
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Can I Mix a Static With a Dynamic Rope for Rappelling?28-Jun-2010
Know that even in the best circumstances, rappelling is never safe and is the number four killer of climbers, experienced and novice alike. Of course, it is conceivable that you can rappel on a static and dynamic cord and survive, but you must know a thing or two about those ropes....
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Should You Lower Or Rap Through Anchors?25-Jun-2010
Does lowering through rap rings or chains cause significant wear?I live in an area with established crags, but not many locals. When anchors need repl......
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Should You Clip the Belay As Your First Lead Pro?25-Jun-2010
When multi-pitch climbing, I've always clipped through the anchor at the belay before starting to lead up the next pitch.Recently, though, a guide fri......
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How Should The Middle Man Tie In?25-Jun-2010
Can I use a 9mm half (double) rope for a three-man rope team for glacier travel? What is the best way for the middleman to tie in? With an eight on a bight, bowline on a bight or butterfly with two lockers?...
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How Do I Get a Good Climbing Man?25-Jun-2010
Where are all the single climber men? It seems everyone I meet is deep in a relationship or a loser. How can I find the right guy for me?...
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Do Falls Weaken Bolts?25-Jun-2010
If dripping water can over time reduce granite to sand, you can imagine that falling on a bolt weakens it. ...
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Should I Rope Solo?24-Jun-2010
What's the deal with roped soloing? Everybody says it's unsafe, but I have no friends. Is there a "safe" way to do it?...
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Should I Angle Ice Screws Down?24-Jun-2010
I heard that ice screws should be angled slightly down to maximize the strength of the threads. If this is true, why don't the threads run the full le......
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How Should Old Climbers Train?24-Jun-2010
As a subscriber and a 48-year-”old” climber, I would like to know how the old, good climbers train. Have any articles been written on this?...
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Can I Make a Belay Loop?24-Jun-2010
Manufacturers add them only because, while few of us can grasp the real magic that locks a cam into place (the constant angle), we know from experience that teeth bite....
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Reusiing Ice Screw Holes18-Jun-2010
It's easier to set an ice screw into an existing hole than to place one from scratch, but does reusing a hole compromise the placement's strength?...
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Overcoming Fear of Falling18-Jun-2010
Fear is a natural, chemical process stemming from hormonal and neuro-chemical responses in the brain to tangible and realistic dangers. It is a survival, flight-or-fight response. ...
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Choosing a Stove Fuel18-Jun-2010
All three gases are canister fuels. Stored under pressure, the fuel vapors compress into liquid, making it possible to pack a lot of fuel into a small canister....
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Will My Hiking Boots Work With Crampons?21-May-2010
I am hiking Aconcagua next January, and, being a dirtbag climber, would like to use the gear I already own. I have Asolo TPS 520 GV hiking boots, and ......
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Do Heavy People Shock Load the Rope?12-Apr-2010
You can argue that all falls shock load the rope, because the rope instantly goes from not being loaded to being loaded. ...
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Can Offset Cams Subsitute for Regular Cams?12-Apr-2010
I bought a few Metolius Offset TCUs and, upon reading about them, learned that they are designed primarily for use in flares and pin scars. Can they hold lead falls when properly placed in parallel cracks (i.e., splitters)? I don’t see why they wouldn’t....
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Can I Resling My Cams Myself?12-Apr-2010
I use Black Diamond Camalots, but half the time I need to extend the sling with a quickdraw, which is a waste of gear. I’m considering replacing the original single sling with a doubled loop of Spectra cord so I can extend it when I need it. Is that safe?...
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Are Older Alien Cams Safe?12-Apr-2010
Would you trust CCH Alien cams that were produced after the dimpled batch and are marked tensile tested? Also, can re-testing weaken your hardware?...
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Antifreeze12-Apr-2010
Will sports drinks freeze more slowly than water? I'm going into the mountains and would like to freeze-proof my beverages....
Cold War
What do sitting through an ice comp and a recital of Bach's Brandenburg concertos have in common? A: They seem brilliant after the fact, but during them you have to mainline espresso beans to stay propped upright.








