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The Truth About Climbing Supplements30-Mar-2010
Note that your substance in question is a “supplement,” meaning it is in addition to something else. That other thing is a good diet, rest and structured exercise. ...
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Can I Make My Leashed Tools, Leashless?30-Mar-2010
I have seen folks jury-rig various scraps to the shafts of their old tools trying to retro them for modern leashless climbing. ...
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Rope Stretch Facts24-Feb-2010
A climbing rope should not stretch 25 feet in any toprope situation. Dynamic ropes stretch, but the 30 percent you tossed out is calculated using a factor-2 lead fall, the stuff of nightmares and a far cry from the piddly sag-on-the-TR deal your friends described. ...
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How To Cut a Rope Without a Knife24-Feb-2010
I'm no Simon Yates, but I have learned to cut a rope, and without a knife, no less, usually in miserable stuck-rap-rope situations where you are forced to cut what rope you can salvage, and at miserable emergency retreats where you have to chop up your rope for anchor cord. ...
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Secrets of the Toprope04-Feb-2010
My girlfriend and I are starting to climb outside. We have taken a couple of beginning climbing and anchor-building courses. We don't intend to lead, ......
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How to Sharpen Crampons04-Feb-2010
Get a mill bastard (not again!) file, available at hardware stores and your pappy’s tool shed. Clamp your crampons in a vice if you have one....
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Should I Become a Climbing Guide?02-Feb-2010
One of my favorite guiding memories is the time I got the call to take a pot-bellied and bald(ing) hard rocker and his band (with bodyguards) out for a day of exercise on the stone....
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Preventing Climbing Rope Wear02-Feb-2010
DHave you noticed how your rope only gets worn on one side? The fraying is uneven because the rope always seems to orient itself so that......
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How to Remove an Old Bolt02-Feb-2010
What is the best way to chop a rusty quarter-inch split-shank Rawl bolt? The crowbar is trashing the rock, and the bolt isn't moving. The bolt is placed in a dish, so I can't get a hacksaw in there. Can I use a cold chisel? Any other ideas?...
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How to Customize Ice Tool Picks02-Feb-2010
I am going to pick up the dark art of mixed climbing -- you know, rock climbing with ice tools -- but I don't know if I should reshape the picks on my tools to hook better on rock, or leave them alone. They cost $45 each and I don't want to ruin them. Help!...
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Double Rope Facts02-Feb-2010
I understand the designations for ropes and the corresponding limitations for their use, but am confused about double (half) ropes. I get that they are supposed to be clipped individually into your pro, never together, yada-yada....
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Do It Yourself Fruit Boots02-Feb-2010
I'm a poor working s.o.b. and can't spring $400 to $600 for a pair of sweet fruit boots. Can I make my own?...
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Climbing Rope Sheath Slippage02-Feb-2010
Rope sheaths and cores are meant to work as a team, pulling for a common cause, much like a ring master and circus midget, pulling for a common cause. ...
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Rockfall Safety29-Jan-2010
If I'm on a route and my leader yells rock! and there's no good cover close should I look up to try to see where it's coming from or just hug the ro......
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Do Screamers Work?29-Jan-2010
Suppose I'm aiding. I am daisy chained to a bomber bolt while I am bounce testing a marginal placement. If the top piece blows, will it be okay to take a daisy fall if I have a Screamer between the bolt and my daisy?...
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Defining the Cheater Stick and Stick Clip29-Jan-2010
What's the difference between a cheater stick and a stick clip? Do I need both?...
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Climbing Skin Care29-Jan-2010
First, you must build up a tough skin base, which comes from simply climbing. Knowing when your skin feels thin and weepy, or that you are developing a crack or flapper is important too - stop climbing when you feel the onset of a problem. Best to nip it in the bud before it becomes chronic. A deep crack in a pad or joint crease, for instance, can pester you for an entire season....
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Selecting a Gym Rope28-Jan-2010
I'm looking for a new rope exclusively for leading at a local indoor gym. I've been using a 10.5mm, but would like a 10mm. We have to use a Grigri at ......
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Quick Links for Climbing28-Jan-2010
I live near Rifle and there are a ton of fixed draws with different sizes of quick links attaching them to the bolts. What is the recommended size for this application, and what should the breaking strength be?...
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Are Russian Cams Good?28-Jan-2010
I have found a gear maker called Gear4rocks that sells cams for around $20. It seems too good to be true. Are they credible?...
Tuff Love
The Owens River Gorge is vast, bullet and the best sport-climbing venue in California. So how did it fall by the wayside and why is it just now coming back?








