-
The Truth About Climbing Supplements30-Mar-2010
Note that your substance in question is a “supplement,” meaning it is in addition to something else. That other thing is a good diet, rest and structured exercise. ...
-
Can I Make My Leashed Tools, Leashless?30-Mar-2010
I have seen folks jury-rig various scraps to the shafts of their old tools trying to retro them for modern leashless climbing. ...
-
Rope Stretch Facts24-Feb-2010
A climbing rope should not stretch 25 feet in any toprope situation. Dynamic ropes stretch, but the 30 percent you tossed out is calculated using a factor-2 lead fall, the stuff of nightmares and a far cry from the piddly sag-on-the-TR deal your friends described. ...
-
How To Cut a Rope Without a Knife24-Feb-2010
I'm no Simon Yates, but I have learned to cut a rope, and without a knife, no less, usually in miserable stuck-rap-rope situations where you are forced to cut what rope you can salvage, and at miserable emergency retreats where you have to chop up your rope for anchor cord. ...
-
Secrets of the Toprope04-Feb-2010
My girlfriend and I are starting to climb outside. We have taken a couple of beginning climbing and anchor-building courses. We don't intend to lead, ......
-
How to Sharpen Crampons04-Feb-2010
Get a mill bastard (not again!) file, available at hardware stores and your pappy’s tool shed. Clamp your crampons in a vice if you have one....
-
Should I Become a Climbing Guide?02-Feb-2010
One of my favorite guiding memories is the time I got the call to take a pot-bellied and bald(ing) hard rocker and his band (with bodyguards) out for a day of exercise on the stone....
-
Preventing Climbing Rope Wear02-Feb-2010
DHave you noticed how your rope only gets worn on one side? The fraying is uneven because the rope always seems to orient itself so that......
-
How to Remove an Old Bolt02-Feb-2010
What is the best way to chop a rusty quarter-inch split-shank Rawl bolt? The crowbar is trashing the rock, and the bolt isn't moving. The bolt is placed in a dish, so I can't get a hacksaw in there. Can I use a cold chisel? Any other ideas?...
-
How to Customize Ice Tool Picks02-Feb-2010
I am going to pick up the dark art of mixed climbing -- you know, rock climbing with ice tools -- but I don't know if I should reshape the picks on my tools to hook better on rock, or leave them alone. They cost $45 each and I don't want to ruin them. Help!...
-
Double Rope Facts02-Feb-2010
I understand the designations for ropes and the corresponding limitations for their use, but am confused about double (half) ropes. I get that they are supposed to be clipped individually into your pro, never together, yada-yada....
-
Do It Yourself Fruit Boots02-Feb-2010
I'm a poor working s.o.b. and can't spring $400 to $600 for a pair of sweet fruit boots. Can I make my own?...
-
Climbing Rope Sheath Slippage02-Feb-2010
Rope sheaths and cores are meant to work as a team, pulling for a common cause, much like a ring master and circus midget, pulling for a common cause. ...
-
Rockfall Safety29-Jan-2010
If I'm on a route and my leader yells rock! and there's no good cover close should I look up to try to see where it's coming from or just hug the ro......
-
Do Screamers Work?29-Jan-2010
Suppose I'm aiding. I am daisy chained to a bomber bolt while I am bounce testing a marginal placement. If the top piece blows, will it be okay to take a daisy fall if I have a Screamer between the bolt and my daisy?...
-
Defining the Cheater Stick and Stick Clip29-Jan-2010
What's the difference between a cheater stick and a stick clip? Do I need both?...
-
Climbing Skin Care29-Jan-2010
First, you must build up a tough skin base, which comes from simply climbing. Knowing when your skin feels thin and weepy, or that you are developing a crack or flapper is important too - stop climbing when you feel the onset of a problem. Best to nip it in the bud before it becomes chronic. A deep crack in a pad or joint crease, for instance, can pester you for an entire season....
-
Selecting a Gym Rope28-Jan-2010
I'm looking for a new rope exclusively for leading at a local indoor gym. I've been using a 10.5mm, but would like a 10mm. We have to use a Grigri at ......
-
Quick Links for Climbing28-Jan-2010
I live near Rifle and there are a ton of fixed draws with different sizes of quick links attaching them to the bolts. What is the recommended size for this application, and what should the breaking strength be?...
-
Are Russian Cams Good?28-Jan-2010
I have found a gear maker called Gear4rocks that sells cams for around $20. It seems too good to be true. Are they credible?...
Ascender Safety 101
Three fatalities on this one route alone underscore the seriousness of jugging fixed ropes. Though seemingly simple and safe, this task, like rappelling, is one of climbing’s most insidious killers. The good news is that, as with rappelling, a few simple precautions can minimize the risk.








