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Crossroads04-Nov-2010"Pretty sure I'm floating," I said into the phone immediately after my friend Matt called to say, "Whatever you do, don't drive your usual way.
At that moment my car's engine quit, and it lifted up and started drifting toward a gas station. It was 12:30 a.m. and dumping rain. "What do you mean?" Matt said.... -
John Long: The Royal Scam11-Oct-2010Coming clean on the mysterious first ascent of a Yosemite classic....
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John Long: The Only Rule That Counts11-Oct-2010The greatest riches lie at the end of your dreams...
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John Long: On the Road11-Oct-2010And you thought your last climbing trip was tough....
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John Long: Nothing but Rubble11-Oct-2010The never-ending pursuit of new routes, fame and glory....
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John Long: Mountains of Trouble11-Oct-2010The cement-bucket drop test, swami belts and the beginning of the end of a fabled climbing club....
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John Long: Legends of the Mind11-Oct-2010Calling Buhl on the famous mountaineer’s truisms...
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John Long: Legend of Lord Gym11-Oct-2010
Sammy and I hunkered into the shade beneath the Weeping Wall, Suicide Rock, panting between pulls on a gallon jug of water. The sun had just crawled over Tahquitz Rock, a mile across the Sunshine Valley, and heat waves welled off the Suicide slabs. No big....
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John Long: Guilty Pleasures11-Oct-2010Lynn Hill and I spent the winter of 1981 in Las Vegas, climbing daily at Red Rocks and plowing through nights at dead-end jobs. After roughly 10 seasons of climbing 300 days a year, my learning curve had flattened and I found myself singing the same old song....
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John Long: Channel Surfing11-Oct-2010
As far back as I could remember I’d wondered which of mankind’s faiths and illusions I could choose as my sustaining light, and I’d chosen the greatest existential pathology of them all: that if I worked hard enough, and smartly enough, my greatest challenges would someday flow effortlessly under my hands like glassy Malibu swells....
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John Long: A Confederacy of Dunces11-Oct-2010Navigating Commercial Hoopla On A Bellyful Of Bad Fish...
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Dreamweaver Mixed Cliimb Rocky Mountain National Park01-Oct-2010Bruised ribs from a bike crash did not qualify Greg for our toughest man title. I had the trump card: a permanently broken rib, called a non-union fracture in the orthopedic jargon, from a surfing crash. It was no contest....
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Tom Frost and Yosemite's Lost Climbing Photos10-Sep-2010
Yosemite pioneer Tom Frost dusts off his forgotten photos from the golden age and gives a behind the scenes glimpse of Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard and TM Herbert....
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Refugee10-Sep-2010We tried to do everything right and were still caught out. The evening before, Ken and I reconned our route partway up the mountain. We packed our p......
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Creatures of Feature10-Sep-2010The thought of a 200-pound cougar lurking somewhere in the old-growth cedars injected a spring into my step as I battled up the steep back-side trail on Squamish Chief. This dome-shaped mountain and its gorgeous granite walls loom over the 100-year-old logging town of Squamish, nestled at the head of an inlet on British Columbia's lush West Coast. ...
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THE KARMA CONNECTION01-Jul-2010BY JEFF LONGSINCE THE DAYS OF GEORGE MALLORY, Rongbuk Monastery has been part of the Everest experience. No one reaches the north side without passing......
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The Dark Art30-Jun-2010BY FITZ CAHALLSITTING IN A KATOOMBA PUB, GARTH MILLER TOLD ME, Whatever you do, don't grab the surfboard.We were in the center of the Blue Mountains......
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Altered State29-Jun-2010A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance....
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THE WATERFALL28-Jun-2010AT 5 A.M. WE PACKED UP IN THE pitch-black dampness to continue our descent from Mount Pembroke. Ron led through the thick coastal foliage and chill mi......
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The Montana Girls25-Jun-2010EL CAP REPORT 5/23/07The Montana girls were going slowly yesterday, as you may recall, and I figured they would be lucky to make Dolt Tower by midnigh......
WAR IN PATAGONIA!
RYAN NELSON AND CRYSTAL DAVIS-ROBBINS, both of Colorado, established a 3,300-foot new route on the unclimbed south face of La Aguja de L'S (7,660 feet...








