How to beat the scourge of climbing....27-Feb-2012
Oh, the mellifluous sounds of injury. Their regularity forms the leitmotif of Modern Climbing: the Musical. If you get into the groove, you will end up dancing the Charlie Foxtrot....04-Feb-2011
Basic Aid Technique01-Feb-2013
The following is an excerpt on basic aid leading from the book How to Big Wall Climb by Chris McNamara....01-Feb-2013
Rock Climbing Nutrition: Anti-inflammatory Foods vs NSAIDS04-Feb-2011
Working on my elbow tendonitis years ago, a chiropractor-climber, Eric Vining, put me on two teaspoons a day of fish oil. Lemon-flavored though it was, I found it awful. When I whined, he switched me to three fish-oil capsules a day. Better. But still not great....04-Feb-2011
Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing04-Nov-2010
I'm looking for a new method for structuring my power-training sets on the hangboard. I've used the pyramid structure many times, but surely some different combinations are equally effective?...04-Nov-2010
Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time29-Jan-2010
The arrival of summer means climbing trips. How would one train to be able to climb as much as possible during a finite period?...29-Jan-2010
Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb07-Jan-2013
One of the most important performance skills is the ability to maintain good technique in high-pressure situations....07-Jan-2013
The Intuitive Approach to Training04-Feb-2011
Widely accepted among advanced athletes and used and loved by many climbers, periodization is the structured approach to training that involves mani......04-Feb-2011
THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS27-Feb-2012
TRAINING AND performance experts agree: warming up before you climb will help keep you healthy and climbing your best....27-Feb-2012
Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!27-Feb-2012
I have a recurring elbow injury. I know how to fix it, but how can I stay strong while it’s healing?...27-Feb-2012
Climber Dies in Fall From El Cap's East Ledges
Climber mistakes stuck rope for a fixed line on the East Ledges rappels, El Capitan, Yosemite.
Fatal Unroped Fall On Easy Terrain - Bear Creek Spire, California
An unroped climber falls to death from the East Ridge (IV 5.8) of Bear Creek Spire, a 13,726-foot peak in the eastern Sierra Nevada.
Simul-Rappel Goes Tragically Wrong - Reed’s Pinnacle, Yosemite
A simul-rappel mistake leads to a tragic death on Reed's Pinnacle in Yosemite Valley, California.