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The Intuitive Approach to Training04-Feb-2011
Widely accepted among advanced athletes and used and loved by many climbers, periodization is the structured approach to training that involves mani......
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THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS27-Feb-2012
TRAINING AND performance experts agree: warming up before you climb will help keep you healthy and climbing your best....
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The Secrets of Warming Up28-Jan-2010
I understand the importance of getting pumped as part of your warm-up for onsighting, but what is the best way to warm up?...
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The Unnatural Way to Climb07-Jan-2013One of the most important performance skills is the ability to maintain good technique in high-pressure situations....
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Tips for Better Onsighting15-Sep-2010
I'm going to Ceuse for three weeks this summer and aim to push my onsight / flash grade as hard as I can. I know that you've gone into detail in past articles about how to onsight on a route-by-route basis but it would be really useful if you could cover a broader range of tactics that could be employed over several weeks on a trip....
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Too Hard for a Caveman19-Dec-2012Anyone can hit the campus board and get strong, but a truly skilled climber is someone who can keep it together even when he is drowning in lactic acid, miles above the runner. ...
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Training During Pregnancy02-Feb-2010
I am a 20-year-old woman, six months pregnant and a passionate climber. I’ve been climbing for three years, and already have a 2-year-old daughter. ...
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Training While Hungry30-Mar-2010
I am tired of reading the same old stuff about sports nutrition. Has anything new been discovered this century and do you think that minor tweaks to a nutritional regime can help give climbers an edge? ...
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Training With an Injury21-Oct-2009
How can I continue to train with a hurt finger?...
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Ultimate Strength28-Jan-2010In last year's Health Issue (No. 167), I detailed a three-month training program that included strength, power and power-endurance. While most people ......
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Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades20-Nov-2009Although some climbers eschew any type of quantification, most of us want to know how difficult a climb is, either to keep us from biting off more cli......
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Using a Weight Belt For Training02-Feb-2010
Does it help to use a weight belt to increase endurance, or should weight only be added when training strength and power?...
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Warming Up Without Warm-Ups20-Oct-2009
I have a project at a crag that has only hard (for me) routes. All the routes have low cruxes, right off the ground, as well as hard, tweaky climbing throughout. How do I warm up at a place with no warm-ups? ...
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Winter Workouts07-Mar-2011The gym season is here. Time to ask: Am I getting the best returns from my training? Now can be a crucial time to gain. In particular, you can boost t......
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Witness the Mental Fitness27-Feb-2012Set thought aside to improve performance...
Sunshine (5.10) // Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos
Alpinist Steve House gives the skinny on his favorite 5.10








