-
Are Homemade Draws Reliable?07-Jan-2013
I have rigged my homemade draws with rubber bands to prevent the carabiners from crossloading, but I'm not sure if I am compromising my safety. Help! ...
-
Avoiding Arthritis27-Feb-2012
How to beat the scourge of climbing....
-
Avoiding Injury04-Feb-2011
Oh, the mellifluous sounds of injury. Their regularity forms the leitmotif of Modern Climbing: the Musical. If you get into the groove, you will end up dancing the Charlie Foxtrot....
-
Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump20-Oct-2009
I get pumped really quickly while I’m placing gear. Any tips for avoiding the trad burn?...
-
Beat the Ice-Climbing Pump28-Jan-2010
I don't think I'm alone in feeling like I get way more pumped ice climbing than rock climbing. How do you beat the pump when you are on ice?...
-
Beating the Lactic Acid Pump20-Oct-2009
After lowering off a very pumpy climb, can I speed my recovery by running or doing pushups? I heard that light aerobic exercise immediately following a climb helps flush lactic acid out of the forearms by pumping blood through the body....
-
Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering02-Feb-2010
What is the optimal ratio of rest days to climbing days to train specifically for bouldering?...
-
Bolt Pulls Out in the New River Gorge15-Jan-2013On June 23 two groups from area gyms were climbing at crags along the Meadow River in the New River Gorge, West Virginia. Instructors from the gyms were guiding the climbers and both groups were overseen by an AMGA-certified rock-climbing instructor. ...
-
Boost Power With Eccentric Training01-Oct-2010
Eccentric training can be used to build strength for climbing in three main ways. ...
-
Can Old Guys Get Stronger?04-Dec-2009
As an older climber with a long history of climbing and athletics, I find that age, lifestyle, work commitments and other responsibilities have been taking their toll on performance....
-
Can't Lose with the Anti-Inflammatory Diet04-Feb-2011
Working on my elbow tendonitis years ago, a chiropractor-climber, Eric Vining, put me on two teaspoons a day of fish oil. Lemon-flavored though it was, I found it awful. When I whined, he switched me to three fish-oil capsules a day. Better. But still not great....
-
Catch of the Day14-Jan-2013You can’t reach your potential in climbing if you are terrified of falling, and the key to confidence is for you and your partner to master dynamic-belaying technique. If you are still using the belay method that you learned as a beginner—standing still at the base and locking the rope off—then there is no guarantee that your leader will have a safe, comfortable fall. The “catch” may be too static and the climber may hit the wall too hard. ...
-
Cheap Tricks27-Feb-2012How long has it been since you noticed a real improvement in your climbing? If it has been a year or two, then you are probably still reaping the benefits of your previous breakthrough....
-
Climbing Anchor and Belay Stations20-Nov-2009The rules for placing gear for anchor stations, whether for lead or toprope situations are no different from those that apply to placing gear on lead, but the consequences of failure are usually more severe. Anchor stations must be bombproof and secure from any directional pull-down, out and up....
-
Climbing Photography How To27-Feb-2012
Turning your climbing photography passion into cash...
-
Dialing in Crampon Technique28-Jan-2010
I'm flummoxed by mixed climbing technique, specifically the footwork. Can you give me some tips for using crampons on rock? - Wes Walker | Carbondale, ......
-
Do Forearm Trainers Work?29-Jan-2010
I have seen quite a few forearm strengtheners on the market. Is any one better than the other in terms of results?...
-
Does Creatine Work?15-Dec-2009
Everyone is talking about creatine, but I've heard it causes major water retention, which cancels out any strength gains. Is this yet another case of climbers experimenting with supplements that only work for weight-lifting or bodybuilding? ...
-
Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?09-Apr-2010
Specificity is the number-one training principle for climbing, and laps on routes will always produce more specific endurance gains for climbing than hitting the pavement....
-
Dynamic vs. Static Stretching29-Jan-2010
Should I only do dynamic mobility exercises as part of my warm-up? Recent studies suggest that static stretches temporarily relax the muscles and redu......
Suffer and Be Merry
Eastern versions of the new old tradition








