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HowTo Use Microcycles24-Feb-2010Last winter I followed a basic periodized program. Now I want to take things further. I'm clear on the idea of breaking your training up into microcycles and prioritizing them toward either strength or endurance....
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Improving Slab Technique04-Feb-2010
I hate slabs! Any technique tips?...
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Injured? Train Your Core!27-Feb-2012
I have a recurring elbow injury. I know how to fix it, but how can I stay strong while it’s healing?...
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Is Protein Important?09-Apr-2010
When it comes to gaining muscle bulk, the type of training you do will always have far more influence than what you eat......
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Maximizing a Small Home Wall02-Feb-2010
Can you outline a training regimen for the home-wall climber?...
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Maximum Training in Minimum Time29-Jan-2010
The arrival of summer means climbing trips. How would one train to be able to climb as much as possible during a finite period?...
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Overcome Anxiety and Send!29-Jan-2010
I want to climb my first 5.13a but I keep getting bouted by the redpoint demons. Last year I abandoned a project because, after six days of effort, I ......
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Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach28-Jan-2010
Most long-term training programs attempt to coordinate physical, mental and skill cycles to produce a period of peak performance. ...
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Recovery Supplement Truths04-Dec-2009
What do you think about drinking recovery supplements, such as whey protein or glutamine, throughout a day of cragging? ...
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Regaining Confidence After a Fall29-Jan-2010
Last year I took a groundfall while trad climbing, which resulted in a compression fracture in one of my vertebrae. I hope to use this experience to b......
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Respecting the Climbing Environment20-Nov-2009
Minimizing your impact is the highest style of all....
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Resting the Perfect Amount15-Dec-2009
How long should I rest between burns?...
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Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard27-Feb-2012
The answers are really simple when it comes to training, and I’m afraid that both concepts have merit and can be used to achieve different effects. ...
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Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?21-May-2010
Crash dieting is not the answer. Not only do hardcore diets take all the joy away from climbing (and life) but they make weight control more difficult by disrupting your metabolism. ...
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Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone24-Feb-2010
I have a SLAP lesion [a cartilage tear on the rim of the shoulder socket] having injured my shoulder seven months ago. My D.O. gave me a cortisone shot yesterday and I actually feel worse....
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Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome18-Jun-2010
My hands, especially my little fingers, go numb (they tingle), whenever I climb a lot. A few pulls here or there cause no problem, but all-day climbing sure does. ...
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The Climbing Dictionary20-Nov-2009
Decoding climbing's vexing language...
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The First Sport20-Nov-2009
There are only three sports®mountain climbing, bull fighting and motor racing®all others being games. Ernest Hemingway wrote that a half-century ago......
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The Importance of Finger Strength29-Jan-2010
Malcolm Smith said, Finger strength is everything and if you lay down a foundation back in 1992 at the age of 18. ...
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THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS27-Feb-2012
TRAINING AND performance experts agree: warming up before you climb will help keep you healthy and climbing your best....
Game On
"The best story I know of Bridalveil Falls," says Vince Anderson, "involves a couple of friends who ended up in an all-night chase through the forest, eventually eluding the police."








