I climb three or four days a week on average. What's the best combination of rest days and climbing days?...

I learned to climb in the 1970s, before sport climbing. Back then, many climbs were dangerous and falling was taboo. Because of that early experience,......

What's the best and easiest way to develop crusher sloper strength, and what's the best way to grip a sloper?...

I know that mental-preparation routines can be hugely beneficial for climbers, but the books never tell you how to fit these in when you're hanging out with your buddies. What routines do you recommend and how can you do these before a climb without looking like a geek?...

I'm looking for a new method for structuring my power-training sets on the hangboard. I've used the pyramid structure many times, but surely some different combinations are equally effective?...

Eating small meals helps keep my energy level up but I'm drained by 4 p.m., while large meals keep me satisfied but sluggish. What are some of the best foods to eat at the crag to feel energized throughout the day?...

Does the G-Tox method for shaking out on routes work? Any other advice for getting the best recovery in a strenuous position, without waving your arms......

Jason Kehl is high. Twenty-five feet up the Grandpa Peabody boulder, the 60-foot monster testpiece in the Buttermilks near Bishop, he has just pimped a sustained, overhanging V10 section, but isn’t out of the woods yet. The seven-move sloper crux is still ahead....

Set some goals. Write them down. Training without goals is like coffee without caffeine—pointless. ...

I get flustered by complex cruxes above good rests. I down climb to the rest and get more confused, then finally go up and slap aimlessly for something just to get it over with. Any advice for calmer route reading?...

Last winter I followed a basic periodized program. Now I want to take things further. I'm clear on the idea of breaking your training up into microcycles and prioritizing them toward either strength or endurance....

I hate slabs! Any technique tips?...

I have a recurring elbow injury. I know how to fix it, but how can I stay strong while it’s healing?...

When it comes to gaining muscle bulk, the type of training you do will always have far more influence than what you eat......

I am 16 weeks out from an ACL reconstruction and meniscus repair. I hurt my knee in March 2009 and had surgery in August. While I have managed to be patient, there are times when I get discouraged....

I broke my leg bouldering and had a titanium rod installed. I have heard mixed reports about leaving the rod in, one problem being irritation by the screws. Can the rod increase the chance of the leg breaking in the same place under similar circumstances, since the bone cannot “weld” itself together on the inside?...

Recently I was working a boulder problem over and over with no success. Getting frustrated, I decided to try some new beta and found myself 10 feet up and sideways. I greased off, and fell onto my ankle, which rolled like Silly Putty....

Can you outline a training regimen for the home-wall climber?...

The arrival of summer means climbing trips. How would one train to be able to climb as much as possible during a finite period?...

I want to climb my first 5.13a but I keep getting bouted by the redpoint demons. Last year I abandoned a project because, after six days of effort, I ......