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Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach28-Jan-2010
Most long-term training programs attempt to coordinate physical, mental and skill cycles to produce a period of peak performance. ...
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Recovery Supplement Truths04-Dec-2009
What do you think about drinking recovery supplements, such as whey protein or glutamine, throughout a day of cragging? ...
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Regaining Confidence After a Fall29-Jan-2010
Last year I took a groundfall while trad climbing, which resulted in a compression fracture in one of my vertebrae. I hope to use this experience to b......
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Respecting the Climbing Environment20-Nov-2009
Minimizing your impact is the highest style of all....
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Rest ... or Else04-Feb-2011
Neil Gresham, renowned coach and Rock and Ice columnist, outlines the most essential (and neglected) component of any training program—recovery...
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Resting the Perfect Amount15-Dec-2009
How long should I rest between burns?...
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Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard27-Feb-2012
The answers are really simple when it comes to training, and I’m afraid that both concepts have merit and can be used to achieve different effects. ...
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Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?21-May-2010
Crash dieting is not the answer. Not only do hardcore diets take all the joy away from climbing (and life) but they make weight control more difficult by disrupting your metabolism. ...
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Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone24-Feb-2010
I have a SLAP lesion [a cartilage tear on the rim of the shoulder socket] having injured my shoulder seven months ago. My D.O. gave me a cortisone shot yesterday and I actually feel worse....
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Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome18-Jun-2010
My hands, especially my little fingers, go numb (they tingle), whenever I climb a lot. A few pulls here or there cause no problem, but all-day climbing sure does. ...
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The Climbing Dictionary20-Nov-2009
Decoding climbing's vexing language...
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The First Sport20-Nov-2009
There are only three sports®mountain climbing, bull fighting and motor racing®all others being games. Ernest Hemingway wrote that a half-century ago......
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The Importance of Finger Strength29-Jan-2010
Malcolm Smith said, Finger strength is everything and if you lay down a foundation back in 1992 at the age of 18. ...
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The Intuitive Approach to Training04-Feb-2011
Widely accepted among advanced athletes and used and loved by many climbers, periodization is the structured approach to training that involves mani......
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THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS27-Feb-2012
TRAINING AND performance experts agree: warming up before you climb will help keep you healthy and climbing your best....
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The Secrets of Warming Up28-Jan-2010
I understand the importance of getting pumped as part of your warm-up for onsighting, but what is the best way to warm up?...
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The Unnatural Way to Climb07-Jan-2013One of the most important performance skills is the ability to maintain good technique in high-pressure situations....
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Tips for Better Onsighting15-Sep-2010
I'm going to Ceuse for three weeks this summer and aim to push my onsight / flash grade as hard as I can. I know that you've gone into detail in past articles about how to onsight on a route-by-route basis but it would be really useful if you could cover a broader range of tactics that could be employed over several weeks on a trip....
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Too Hard for a Caveman19-Dec-2012Anyone can hit the campus board and get strong, but a truly skilled climber is someone who can keep it together even when he is drowning in lactic acid, miles above the runner. ...
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Training During Pregnancy02-Feb-2010
I am a 20-year-old woman, six months pregnant and a passionate climber. I’ve been climbing for three years, and already have a 2-year-old daughter. ...
King Air
Malaysia Cragging Gets on the Map








