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Elbow: Tennis Elbow16-Jan-2013
I’ve had pain on the outside of my elbow for four or five years. I climb, rest, do tons of PT, fish, find a new PT, rest, climb, quit fishing forever, climb, quit climbing forever, climb, rest, and so on. Should I have an MRI? ...
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Elbow: Medial Tendonosis15-Jan-2013
The last three years I’ve had medial tendonosis in both elbows. For several months I’ve tried all the exercises in various rehab programs including [Dr. J’s] Dodgy Elbows. I wake up every night with pain in my elbows, particularly when I bend my arms. Should I keep getting cortisone shots three times a year? Is surgery an option?
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Elbow: DR. J's Dodgy Elbows01-Dec-2010More recalcitrant than Castro, though less charismatic, elbow pain is the most common and debilitating of chronic climbing injuries. It might be called golfer's or tennis elbow, but it is climbers (and professional knitters) who are most likely to suffer the travails of blown-out elbows....
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Elbow: Tendonosis01-Oct-2010
I started climbing six months ago and gradually increased my level to a lethal week: four straight days of hard bouldering and in the following week three days of trad, before my more experienced friends took away my rock shoes and booked me in with the physio who diagnosed elbow and knee tendonosis....
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Elbow: Medial Epicondylosis and Taping12-Apr-2010
I've had elbow tendonosis for the last year and am finally back to climbing pain free. A physical therapist has told me that weakness in my wrists may be placing greater loads on the elbow tendon, and that taping the wrists before climbing might help. Any thoughts?...
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Elbow: Tingling and Numbness02-Feb-2010
I have numbness and pins-and-needles in my left forearm. The first time it happened was last March while climbing in the Red, and it happened again this past June at Smith Rock. Both times I didn't notice anything until I was finished with the route. ...
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Elbows: Minimizing Fingerboard Injuries29-Jan-2010
I use an old Pusher Powerjunkie hang board and I'm concerned about the angled geometry of the main jugs. In the past I have had elbow problems. Is it bad to do pull-ups on grips that are not horizontal? Do you think that this setup could have a negative effect on my elbows? Is it healthier to have the grips set up horizontally as most other hang boards do?...
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Elbow: Medial Epicondyle Tendonosis28-Jan-2010
I first got tendonosis in my right elbow (medial epicondyle) in 2001 bouldering on plastic. Resting, icing and stretching did not work. I tried cortisone, prednisone, a physical therapist who did massage and Ionto-phoresis for a few weeks (which in hindsight was hocus-pocus), with no long-term improvement....
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Elbow: Stress Fracture04-Dec-2009
I use a campus board for a quick pump when time is limited. I also campus easier problems for some added strength. However, lately, after five minutes or so of training, I get this aching along the ulnar side of my forearm....
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Elbow: Pain and Hangboarding04-Dec-2009
I've been doing hangboard and pull-up sessions with added weight. I have had medial elbow tendonosis in the past, and it seems to be returning....
Limestone Harmony
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