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DR. J Medical Advice

Body

  • Body: Pain Meds vs Sex
  • Appendectomy and Climbing Training
  • Body: Injury Truths
  • Body: BPA and Waterbottles
  • Body: Bouldering for Bone Density
  • Body: Chronic Injury
  • Body: Bouldering for the Bones
  • Body: Antibiotics and Tendon Damage

    • Back

  • Back: Spinal Fracture
  • Back: Preventing Hunchback
  • Back: Herniated Disc

    • Abdomen

  • Abdomen: Muscle Tear/Hernia

    • Arm

    No items found.

    Shoulder

  • Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Shoulder: Frozen Shoulder
  • Shoulder: Torn Labrum, SLAP Lesion
  • Shoulder: Separation
  • Shoulder: Pain and Virus

    • Biceps

    No items found.

    Elbow

  • Elbow: Tennis Elbow
  • Elbow: Medial Tendonosis
  • Elbow: DR. J's Dodgy Elbows
  • Elbow: Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Medial Epicondylosis and Taping
  • Elbow: Tingling and Numbness
  • Elbows: Minimizing Fingerboard Injuries
  • Elbow: Medial Epicondyle Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Stress Fracture
  • Elbow: Pain and Hangboarding

    • Wrist

  • Wrist: Klienbock's Disease
  • Wrist: Ruptured Tendon
  • Snap, Crackle, Wrist
  • Wrist: Fractured Scaphoid
  • Wrist: Instability

    • Hand

  • Stressed-Out Fingers
  • Hands: Dupuytren's Disease (lump in palm)
  • Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome

    • Fingers

  • Fingers: What To Do with a Ruptured Flexor Digitorum Superficialis
  • Stressed-Out Fingers
  • Fingers: Hyper-extended
  • Fingers: Cysts and Pain
  • Fingers: Cracked Fingertips
  • Fingers: De Quervain's Tenosynovitis
  • Fingers: NSAID Treatment
  • Fingers: Torn A2 Pulley
  • Fingers: Trigger Thumb Syndrome
  • Fingers: Stiffness, Soreness
  • Fingers: Grip Position and Injury
  • Fingers: Pinky Finger Pain
  • Fingers: Electrostimulation
  • Fingers: Cortisone for Tendon Injuries
  • Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Fingers: Taping Truths
  • Fingers: Flappers
  • Fingers: Trigger-Finger Syndrome
  • Fingers: Torn A3 and A4 Pulleys
  • Fingers: Cysts
  • Fingers: Arthritis
  • Fingers: Numbness
  • Fingers: Blown Tendons

    • Leg

  • Leg: Achilles Tendonitis
  • Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Leg: Pulled Hamstring
  • Leg: Fracture

    • Knee

  • Knee: Rockfall Causes Lump
  • Knee: Chondral Injury of the Lateral Tibial Plateau
  • Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Knee: Ruptured ACL
  • Knee: Ruptured Ligament and Meniscus
  • Knee: Synovial Cartilage Damage

    • Ankle

  • America's Best Climbing Area: Red River Gorge
  • Loud Pop Ankle Roll

    • Feet

  • Feet: Broken Foot
  • Feet: Gout and Pseudogout
  • Feet: Toe Fracture
    • Mountain Games

    Gear Reviews

    Destinations

    El Cajon Climbing Crag Bolts Chopped
    San Diego's premier crag, El Cajon, has been targeted by an individual bent on removing or destroying fixed anchors and bolts. According to local Chris Hubbard, who co-authored the San Diego County Climbing Guide with Dave Kennedy, the vandal has chopped 16 100-foot sport pitches at El Cajon and several routes at Mission Gorge.
    Video Spotlight
    The Angry Beaver
    The Angry Beaver
    Photo Galleries
    2012 Petzl RocTrip in HD—Argentina
    Ice Climbing at the Narrows, Colorado
    Mill Creek HD-Rock & Ice Photo Camp
    Grampians, Australia/Keith Ladzinski

    Free Digital Isssue

    Rock and Ice Issue #209

    Rock and Ice Issue #209

    Table Of Contents:

    Climb Safe

    How to Survive Bad Weather on El Cap
    By 2 p.m. on the second day, the rain was falling like steel chisels. Slumped atop Boot Flake, halfway up the Nose of El Capitan, I watched in a detached stupor as one of my partners, Chris Rowins, labored on the rain-slick King Swing pendulum.

    Features

    John Long: Mountains of Trouble
    The cement-bucket drop test, swami belts and the beginning of the end of a fabled climbing club.
    Simon Yates' New Route on Mount Vancouver
    Simon Yates and Paul Schweizer gamble on the first alpine-style ascent of the Southwest Spur of Mount Vancouver. | By Paul Schweizer
    Hazel Findlay
    The climb on which Hazel Findlay battled hardest was Mosquito Bite, in the Wye Valley of England. She was 11, it was her first E1 (5.10a), and she could neither find gear nor bear to commit to pulling around an overhang on the second pitch.
    Bouldering in Hampi India
    The luck of finding the perfect line leads to a fall from grace.
    Field Tested: Patagonia Encapsil Down Belay Parka
    The Encapsil Parka is the first 1,000-fill down jacket and has hydrophobic down stuffed into independent baffling, which, in the sewing world, is akin to climbing 5.15.
    Climber's Festival

    Medical Advice

    Fingers: Cysts and Pain
    My middle-finger knuckles have tender growths. It hurts to push on the side of the joint. I'm 36 and have been climbing 17 years. The doctor said my knuckle bumps are related to Dupuytren's disease but I don't have any visible contractures on my palms or feet. X-rays and blood tests are normal. I also have plantar fasciitis in both feet.

    Training Tips

    Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
    Specificity is the number-one training principle for climbing, and laps on routes will always produce more specific endurance gains for climbing than hitting the pavement.

    Gear Advice

    Rope Stretch Facts
    A climbing rope should not stretch 25 feet in any toprope situation. Dynamic ropes stretch, but the 30 percent you tossed out is calculated using a factor-2 lead fall, the stuff of nightmares and a far cry from the piddly sag-on-the-TR deal your friends described.

    Press Release

    Get Digital Accidents in North America FREE!31-Dec-2012

    Rock and Ice and the American Alpine Club (AAC) have teamed up to create a new online educationa..

    Wild Country Recalls Helium Carabiner31-Dec-2012

    Wild Country is issuing a voluntary recall on certain batches of Helium carabiners delivered aft..

    Wild Country Recalls Ropeman31-Dec-2012

    Wild Country recalled their Ropeman 3 ascender which although passing all required CE EN standards h..

    Ascent
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