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Dani Arnold Repeats Anubis (XII 12), Ben Nevis, Scotland
Dani Arnold Repeats Anubis (XII 12), Ben Nevis, Scotland



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John Long relives the adventures of the Stonemasters when they first began rock climbing at Pirates Cove at Newport Beach, California.
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“If I ever did a first ascent,” my friend Brandi said, “I would call it Super Wuss.” After belaying Brandi for nearly an hour as she hung, battled and grunted up the red 5.6 at the Boulder Rock Club, I could see that she was probably not destined for new routing. But the name made me laugh, and I thought it deserved a home on a future first ascent.
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It’s easy to miss the beauty in climbing—the places it takes you, and the rock itself—if you only try routes you can do straight away.
An Encounter with Fred
Joe Josephson phoned with an interesting proposal: Fred Beckey had come to town for a reunion of Montana's Dirty Sox Club, a guild of Montana climbers from the 1960s through the 1980s.

If anyone has earned an honorary membership in a group named Dirty Sox it is Washington's Fred Beckey, sovereign of American DirtBag Climbers.
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This is a full-service board with three usable slopers, three ample and comfortable edges (though no micro ones), and scrolled-edge, shoulder-width jugs that almost make chin-ups a pleasure.

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