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The Red Helmet
The Red Helmet

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John Long: What I've Learned
John Long, original Stonemaster and climbing's most popular writer, spills his guts.
Superwuss (5.10), Black Canyon
“If I ever did a first ascent,” my friend Brandi said, “I would call it Super Wuss.” After belaying Brandi for nearly an hour as she hung, battled and grunted up the red 5.6 at the Boulder Rock Club, I could see that she was probably not destined for new routing. But the name made me laugh, and I thought it deserved a home on a future first ascent.
Benjamin Strohmeier
For someone who was born without a sense of smell, and especially for a young dirtbag climber who lived out of his van, Ben Strohmeier kept himself remarkably free of offensive funk. Whether he was washing his beloved dog just in case she stinks, or asking someone to pick out a nice deodorant for him the day before his girlfriend arrived, he paid great attention to this particular detail.
A Sport for All Ages
At this the most lovely old man got up at the furthest and humblest end of the hall, as he had got up on all similar occasions for the past half-century.
Black Diamond Viper Ice Tool Review
It's easy in this new world order of knobby-handled, leashless mixed tools to lose sight of reality. While we all might fantasize about sending M11 or kicking that little (OK, he's big) Russian's behind in the Ouray mixed finals, the cold hard fact is that we need tools that will actually climb ice, and usually need leashes.

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