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Stormbringer, No Retreat - Ice Climbing in Norway
Stormbringer, No Retreat - Ice Climbing in Norway

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Duane Raleigh, Publisher/Editor-In-Chief, x 126
Paula Stepp, Associate Publisher, x 116
Jeff Jackson, Editor, x 127
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Hayden Carpenter, Online Editor, x 114
Andrew Bisharat, Editor at Large
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Climb Safe


John Long: Legends of the Mind
Calling Buhl on the famous mountaineer’s truisms
Not So Fast: Lessons From a Father-Son Trip to Patagonia
Every couple of years, my son Tim, Jr. and I take a climbing trip together. Usually we pick one of my “dream climbs”—those classic routes that you always hear about, but seem too difficult to consider seriously. But my son encourages me to climb harder than I think I can, and together we have done The Scenic Cruise, The Naked Edge, Primrose Dihedrals and most recently Lotus Flower Tower. It is especially cool for me both to tick a lifetime goal and climb with my son.
John Long: A Man for All Seasons
The myth of Oliver Moon changed the face of Yosemite climbing forever.
Altered State
A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance.
Faders SUM Review
Let us give thanks for auto-locking devices, for they have saved our butts. They allow us to loaf on portaledges, bolt sport climbs, hold our hang-dogging chums and zip down single lines.

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