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AAC Universal Belay Standard - Part 1
AAC Universal Belay Standard - Part 1

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Climb Safe


John Long: Channel Surfing
As far back as I could remember I’d wondered which of mankind’s faiths and illusions I could choose as my sustaining light, and I’d chosen the greatest existential pathology of them all: that if I worked hard enough, and smartly enough, my greatest challenges would someday flow effortlessly under my hands like glassy Malibu swells.
Jah Man (5.10) Sister Superior
The mighty Jah Man checks in at a legit 5.10c. It’s not some super-hyper-sandbagged mid-range 5.11 masquerading as a 5.10+. Jah Man tackles Sister Superior’s sheer West Face via 250 steep feet of Wingate sweetness with exposed climbing, plus great gear and perfect belay ledges.
Kemple and Lindner Almost Free El Nino
In mid-October Tim Kemple and Chris Lindner almost made the sixth ascent of El Niño (VI 5.13c A0), the Huber brothers 1998 free variation to the North America Wall on Yosemite’s El Capitan.
TNB: Chris Sharma and The Art of Jeep Maintenance
The scorched desert expanse surrounding Las Vegas smears together into one terrible brown color as Chris Sharma, Dalia Ojeda, Miguel and I whiz along at 90 miles per hour in an old Jeep Grand Cherokee. The American West, this celebrated frontier, as tame as it has become with commercialism and super highways, is still the last good place I know of for real adventure.
Macpac Epic 300 SF Sleeping Bag
If you’re jonesing to tick a big project in a single push, but you don’t want to bring along a sleeping bag and bivy sack, then check out Macpac’s new line of Epic sleeping bags—these lightweight down bags are also waterproof/breathable bivy sacks, giving climbers the opportunity to completely rethink how they pack for the mountains.

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