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Death Wish Second Ascent
Death Wish Second Ascent

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John Long: The Only Rule That Counts
The greatest riches lie at the end of your dreams
Superwuss (5.10), Black Canyon
“If I ever did a first ascent,” my friend Brandi said, “I would call it Super Wuss.” After belaying Brandi for nearly an hour as she hung, battled and grunted up the red 5.6 at the Boulder Rock Club, I could see that she was probably not destined for new routing. But the name made me laugh, and I thought it deserved a home on a future first ascent.
Close But No Cigar
In 1981 John Bachar cast off into the uncharted expanse of Mendlicott Dome, a steep 500-foot, knob-spackled granite face in Tuolumne Meadows, California, with nothing but a hand drill and bolts, some slings, hooks and cams. Climbing onsight and belayed by Dave Yerian, he established the litmus test for runout climbing, the Bachar-Yerian (5.11c R).
A Sport for All Ages
At this the most lovely old man got up at the furthest and humblest end of the hall, as he had got up on all similar occasions for the past half-century.
Arc’teryx I-340A Harness
Arc’teryx markets the I-340A as a lightweight ice-climbing harness, but I think they are full of poppycock! I used the harness as my primary rig for nearly a year and found that it is the best lightweight (12-ounce) adjustable sport harness I’ve used.

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