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Nalle Hukkataival Sends Long-Standing Swiss Project17-Jun-2013A long standing bouldering project in Magic Wood, Switzerland finally saw an ascent on Saturday when Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival unlocked the sequence and stuck the redpoint. ...
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Two Events Commemorate Layton Kor13-Jun-2013Two events are scheduled this month to recognize and celebrate the life and achievements of climbing legend Layton Kor, who passed away on April 21st of this year from kidney failure and prostate cancer....
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The Future of Bouldering?13-Jun-2013Most seem to agree it's very difficult to see short power problems getting a whole lot harder. There simply seems to be a limit to what physically possible to hang on to, even for mutants - skin will be skin after all, and friction can only help you that much....
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Dave Graham Cranks the Second Ascent of The Full Circle (V14)11-Jun-2013Dave Graham has just completed the second ascent of The Full Circle (V14), which was first done by Nalle Hukkataival. The problem, which Graham describes as having "crazy tension moves ... and on not the best grips," sits in the small canton of Valais between the Bernese and Pennine Alps....
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Daring High Altitude Rescue on Everest Sets Records10-Jun-2013A high-altitude rescue team is setting new standards in the Himalayas this season, performing the highest altitude longline rescue ever completed. On May 19th, an elite rescue team successfully rescued a mountaineer from near Camp 3 at 23,000 feet (7000m) on Everest. ...
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Alex Puccio Third, Stöhr and Sharafutdinov Win Vail World Cup09-Jun-2013Roughly 1,000 spectators erupted on Saturday evening as American Alex Puccio latched the top jug of the women's final problem and cranked a celebratory pull-up at this year's IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado. ...
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Yosemite's Liberty Cap Goes Free06-Jun-2013The Southwest Face of Liberty Cap in Yosemite National Park saw it’s first free ascent May 31st, when Cedar Wright and Lucho Rivera established a new route, tentatively named Mahtah (5.13a)...
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Sharma and Crew Bring First Deep Water Soloing Competition to America!05-Jun-2013No ropes, harnesses or bouldering pads will catch falling climbers at the Psicobloc Masters Series, which will be America's first official deep water soloing competition. ...
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Climber Dies on El Cap03-Jun-2013On Sunday, June 2, a fatal accident occurred on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, California. The National Park Service reports that Felix Joseph Kiernan of London, England, was struck by a rock while climbing roughly 600 feet up the East Buttress of El Cap....
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New Climbing Area Purchased in Kentucky03-Jun-2013The Access Fund and the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition (RRGCC) have just purchased a 309 acre plot of land in Beattyville, Kentucky, which holds a cliff line with potential for hundreds of high-quality sport routes. ...
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Climbing Doesn't Make Olympics29-May-2013The International Olympic Committee (IOC) has cut climbing from the list of possible sports in consideration for the 2020 Olympics....
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Possible 5.15a by Steve McClure29-May-2013British stalwart Steve McClure has added what is possibly another 5.15a link-up to the imposing limestone crag of Malham Cove, near Yorkshire, England....
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Whittaker Says Missed Sex and Salad Most29-May-2013“Talk about wanting to go home!” Whittaker cried in mock ire onstage after the premiere of the new film High and Hallowed, at the MountainFilm festival in Telluride on Friday night. “Two weeks go by, three weeks go by—I have to wait for these guys and they’re screwin’ around on the West Ridge!”...
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5.14d First Ascent for Adam Ondra28-May-2013Adam Ondra has journeyed back to Norway's Hanshalleren cave where he has recently claimed the first ascent of a new 5.14d....
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Nico Favresse Sends His Hardest Crack Climb!27-May-2013Nico Favresse has claimed the first ascent of The Recovery Drink, which he considers to be the hardest crack climb he has ever redpointed. The route is a striking granite splitter located on the Profile wall in Jossingfjord, Norway....
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Five Climbers Missing on Kangchenjunga23-May-2013Five alpinists are missing and feared dead after summiting Kangchenjunga (8586m) in the Himalaya....
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Tragic Climbing Accident at Tahquitz Rock, California22-May-2013On May 17, 21-year-old Lucas Dunn fell 300 feet and died while rappelling on the west face of Tahquitz Rock, California. Dunn was retreating from the top of The Bat Crack (5.11a)--the first of four pitches on The Vampire (5.11a)....
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Trotter, Cardwell, Traversi and Schulte Join Photo Camp21-May-2013America's top climbers have joined the Rock and Ice 2013 photo camp....
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Kenton Cool and Dorje Gylgen Sherpa Summit Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse21-May-2013British mountaineer Kenton Cool and his longtime climbing partner Dorje Gylgen Sherpa enchained the three peaks of Nuptse (7,861m), Everest (8,848m) and Lhotse (8,516m) in three days. ...
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Updated: Death on El Cap20-May-2013A fatal accident occurred on El Capitan in Yosemite, California, on May 19. Yosemite park officials have now confirmed that died in a 230-foot fall while trying to climb the Muir Wall....
Devil's Advocate
In a place defined by vertical geometry, I am the lone exception.
As a climber of decades, I am no stranger to seemingly insane positions and situations, the kinds of things that predictably and, I admit, satisfyingly cause sightseers to unhinge their jaws.
As a climber of decades, I am no stranger to seemingly insane positions and situations, the kinds of things that predictably and, I admit, satisfyingly cause sightseers to unhinge their jaws.








