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John Long Accident Recovery Update30-Jan-2013John Long, who was seriously injured in a gym on November 29 when he fell to the floor from the top of the wall, said today that "all things considered, I am doing well."...
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The Naked Edge in 44 Minutes!30-Jan-2013New speed record on historic Naked Edge (5.11b). Scott Bennett and Brad Gobright climbed the 460-foot route in a blazing 44 minutes....
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Sharma and Ondra Gunning for World's Hardest Route30-Jan-2013Yesterday Adam Ondra came painfully close to sending La Dura Dura, the Sharma project at Oliana which may be the world's hardest route. Reportedly falling two moves away from easier climbing, Ondra seems poised to send. ...
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18 Murdered Near Potrero29-Jan-2013At least 18 people have been murdered and buried or thrown down a well near Potrero Chico, a well-known climbing area in Northern Mexico. ...
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Q&A: Bernd Zangerl Discovers New Boulders29-Jan-2013Bernd Zangerl currently lives like a bouldering monk in Ticino, Switzerland. He rises with the sun in a small house made of rocks on a mountainside, reads or writes in the morning, and then spends the rest of his day trying to unlock the sequence of a long-term bouldering project. ...
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Stanley Headwall Gets Sick New Route28-Jan-2013The Stanley Headwall, or THE Headwall of the Canadian Rockies, has had another big and hard route added, done ground up and in good style. ...
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The Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest Celebrates 20 Years28-Jan-2013The Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest, the biggest, baddest climbing event on the east coast, celebrates its 20th birthday this year from February 1st-3rd, in North Conway, New Hampshire. ...
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Hojer Sends The Big Island28-Jan-2013
Jan Hojer has continued his rampage on the world’s hardest boulders by repeating The Big Island (V15) in Fontainebleau, France. Hojer had climbed The Island (V14/15) one month ago, and then set his sights on linking the two lower moves to complete The Big Island’s fifth ascent. ...
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Ice Climber Killed26-Jan-2013
Robert Andrew Prosser, 60, of Edmonds, Washington, was killed January 13 in a fall from the top of an ice climb at milepost 8 of State Roue 155 near Coulee City. ...
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Despite Warnings, Three Injured in Mount Washington Avalanche26-Jan-2013
Three climbers were injured including an Iraqi War veteran on a fund-raising climb when an avalanche ripped down Central Gully in Huntington Ravine on New Hampshire's Mount Washington. ...
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Is Patagonia Now a Playground?24-Jan-2013In the midst of a stunning Patagonian climbing season where once-seldom-summited peaks are seeing dozens of ascents—and coming on the heels of last years' blitz where Cerro Torre's Compressor Route was chopped and then freed—one can't help but ask: is Patagonian climbing totally different now? ...
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Video + Interview: Schulte's New V13 at Indy Pass23-Jan-2013"The only thing I'm fighting is me." So says Chris Schulte in this new Louder Than 11 film about hard bouldering in the deep and labyrinthine cleft of the Ice Caves, Independence Pass, Colorado. The film shows Schulte’s wild-looking possible V13 The Crucible, which is apparently unrepeated: "No one else has tried it to my knowledge," he told Rock and Ice....
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American Women Fire Fitz Roy22-Jan-2013For Kate Rutherford and Madaleine Sorkin, a women’s place is on top. During the recent splitter weather in Patagonia, this dynamic team of American alpinists climbed Fitz Roy for the massif’s fourth all female ascent....
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Dark Horse Repeats Hueco's Hardest22-Jan-2013The Californian Dan Beall has claimed the fourth ascent of Terremer (V15), in Hueco Tanks. ...
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Cool Video: Making Tommy Caldwell21-Jan-2013Tommy Caldwell may be the hardest-working man in climbing. In this recent video, Making Tommy, filmmaker Chris Alstrin explores Caldwell’s roots, beginning with his first climb in Estes Park at the age of three, to his current battle with El Cap’s Dawn Wall project. ...
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New Mixed Route in Italian Dolomites21-Jan-2013Italian mountain guides Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder completed a first ascent of La Legrima (WI6 M6 A0) in the Dolomites on January 8. The route ascends 1,000 meters of rock and ice on the north face of Sassolungo in the Dolomites and runs roughly parallel to the more common Pichl route on the face....
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Chasing Winter Debuts: Q&A with Ashima + Video21-Jan-2013Two years ago Paul Robinson spent two months bouldering in South Africa, and a year later he returned with a whole crew of bouldering friends. The other visitors to Cape Town and the Cape of Good Hope included the young bouldering phenom Ashima Shiraishi, 11, who is pictured here on Scorpion, a V11 she climbed in a day, in a segment from the new film Chasing Winter. ...
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Four Dead in Scottish Highlands20-Jan-2013An avalanche has swept six climbers off the Scottish Highlands peak Bidean nam Bian, 3,772 feet high, near Church Door Buttress, killing four and seriously injuring a fifth....
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Weekend Whipper: Man vs Tree18-Jan-2013Weekend Whipper: Man falls, slams into tree, breaks ankle....
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Big New Free Route in the Black Canyon18-Jan-2013
Three months of effort in the Black Canyon produce a big new free route, Black Cloud (IV 5.12- PG) by Robert Pizem and Chris Righter....
Climbing Dark Star, a Sierra Classic
There's nothing wrong with spending a summer in Vancouver when Squamish is your backyard, I just wanted more this year. Then the phone rang.
"Come to California," Trev said. "We'll climb some real mountains. There's a couple of Grade Vs I want to get on."
"Come to California," Trev said. "We'll climb some real mountains. There's a couple of Grade Vs I want to get on."








