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Widow's Tears Rare Repeat18-Jan-2013America's longest and most elusive ice climb, Yosemite's Widow's Tears, sees a rare ascent....
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New Slawinski Route Tribute to Guy Lacelle18-Jan-2013Raphael Slawinski and Eamonn Walsh have made the first ascent of a spectular line, Lacelle Qui Reste (WI6, 40 meters), on Mt. Wilson in the Canadian Rockies, on December 30. ...
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Fontainebleau's Hardest Repeated16-Jan-2013Frenchman Guillaume Glairon Mondet has squeezed up The Big Island (V15), making a rare repeat of Fontainebleau’s hardest problem....
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Fresh Ascent of Sharma 5.15a16-Jan-2013Cedric Lachat has made a rare repeat of Chaxi, a 5.15a power-endurance route in Oliana, Spain. Chris Sharma first sent the route on May 5, 2011. ...
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David Lama Back to Patagonia16-Jan-2013Following his groundbreaking first free ascent of the Compressor Route (5.13b) on Cerro Torre last year, David Lama is on his way back to the Patagonian mountains with a wild new first ascent in the Alps as preparation....
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Happy Birthday to Fred Beckey16-Jan-2013Happy belated birthday to Fred Beckey, who turned 90 on Monday. Beckey’s 90 years have been devoted to mountains, and his climbing adventures have left him with more first ascents in the mountains than anyone in North American climbing history. ...
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Gadd's New M1114-Jan-2013Will Gadd, Will Mayo, Pat Delaney, and John Freeman collectively developed a new M11 route called Nophobia in the Ghost area near Canmore, Alberta. Two in the party successfully climbed the route on January 10, 2013....
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Papert and Duverney Return, Win Ouray13-Jan-2013“He’s making it look easy!” exclaimed a shocked spectator while watching Simon Duverney style the final route at the 18th annual Ouray Ice Festival mixed-climbing competition this Saturday....
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Spindrift: Lama and Ortner Open Alpine Testpiece11-Jan-2013David Lama and Peter Ortner established a new route on the North face of Laserz on December 27, 2012, in the Lienzer Dolomites of Austria....
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Blow by Blow: Loskot's V15 Spraydown10-Jan-2013Klem Loskot recently exploded onto the scene with a V15 ascent and a 5.15a first ascent. Now Loskot has shared his thoughts, photos, and video footage of his recent repeat of Zunami (V15) with Rock and Ice. ...
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Photo Gallery: Fred Beckey's Big Comeback09-Jan-2013At the age of 89, Fred Beckey is at it again. Beckey roped up with two other climbers to do Tranquility, a three-pitch 5.6 in Joshua Tree. Beckey turns 90 on January 14 and is an American climbing treasure. ...
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Ethical Debate: Traversi versus Blowtorch09-Jan-2013“Don’t blowtorch the holds!” Or at least that’s what Carlo Traversi has been hearing lately after being shown in a film using a blowtorch to dry some wet granite holds in Sweden....
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V15s for Cardwell and Graham08-Jan-2013V15s are falling like apples in October. Dave Graham and Jon Cardwell have both cranked two of the hardest boulder problems in the world. ...
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Andres Marin Sends Ouray's Hardest Mixed Lines in a Day08-Jan-2013Local climber Andres Marin just sent five of the hardest mixed lines in Ouray's Posers Cave in a single day. "My first visit to the cave was about six years ago," Marin writes in an email to Rock and Ice. "I remember being overwhelmed by the place and how steep the climbing is."...
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VIDEO: Rad WI11 in Helmcken Falls07-Jan-2013Last winter, Klemen Premrl and Tim Emmett completed the first and second ascents (respectively) of Wolverine (WI11) in Helmcken Falls, British Columbia. ...
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Daniel Woods Resurrects Witness the Fitness (V15)07-Jan-2013Last week Daniel Woods told Rock and Ice that he was trying Witness the Fitness in the Ozark Mountains of Arkansas. "It has broken numerous times since Sharma has done it," wrote Woods in an e-mail to Rock and Ice. ...
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Weekend Whipper: Josh Wharton's Screamer in the Park04-Jan-2013Josh Wharton is not scared to fall. Just watch this top-shelf video from John Dickey of Wharton climbing traditional mixed-terrain in Rocky Mountain National Park, and you will see for yourself....
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Southeast's First V14? Woods Unlocks Aggravated Assault03-Jan-2013Daniel Woods has done what may be the first V14 in the Southeast. Aggravated Assault, located in Griffin Falls, Alabama, climbs a 60-degree roof on holds that are “flat and angled the wrong direction” Woods stated in an e-mail to Rock and Ice. ...
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Everest in 3.8 Billion Pixels02-Jan-2013Mount Everest can now be seen like never before. Famed climber and filmmaker David Breashears has stitched together approximately 3.8 billion pixels to create an interactive photo called a "gigapan" that allows viewers to virtually tour the world's highest peak."The context of the photo is really important," Breashears told Rock and Ice. ...
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Two Dead on Aconcagua01-Jan-2013Eric Nourse, 41, of Colorado and David Reinhart, 42, of Portland, Oregon, have died while attempting Aconcagua, 22,841 feet and the highest mountain in the Americas. ...
Simon Yates' New Route on Mount Vancouver
Simon Yates and Paul Schweizer gamble on the first alpine-style ascent of the Southwest Spur of Mount Vancouver. | By Paul Schweizer








