The Masters


Jeff Ward - IFMGA/AMGA Guide

Jeff Ward is an IFMGA-licensed and AMGA-certified Alpine, Ski and Rock Guide. He grew up in the Northwest and is co-owner of North Cascades Mountain Guides (www.ncmountainguides.com) based in Mazama. Ward is a lead instructor for the American Mountain Guides Association and serves on their technical committee.



Martin Volken - IFMGA Guide

Martin Volken is the founder and owner of Pro Guiding Service and Pro Ski and Mountain Service in North Bend, WA. He is a certified IFMGA Swiss Mountain Guide and guides over 120 days per year in North America and Europe as a ski, rock and alpine guide. Volken has pioneered several steep ski descents, ski traverses, alpine and rock routes in the Washington Cascades. He has been a member of the AMGA examiner team since 2000 and has authored and co-authored three books on ski touring and ski mountaineering.

Got a question about climbing? Submit your question in the Ask the Master forum and either Jeff Ward or Martin Volken will supply the answer.

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Knot for rappelling with 2 ropes

30-Nov-2016 05:55 PM

ncroclimber

ncroclimber
Posts: 2

Good evening. I have climbed for 44 yrs, and have used several different knots to tie rap ropes together. There have been quite a few articles lately debating the best way to tie ropes together.  None of them the way I have for at least two decades. 

I tie my rap ropes using a square knot backed up on each side with half of a double fisherman's knot. The fisherman's is always snugged tightly against the back of the square knot. It's easy to tie and easy to un-tie after it's been weighted. 

Is this a safe way to tie the ropes or have I been playing Russian roulette? Your thoughts are greatly appreciated. 


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01-Dec-2016 01:29 PM

Not Available


Posts: 1

Hi mighty master-

Confusing infos re joining ropes for raps abound, that's exactly my question to you. I use the Flat Overhand (oddly also known as EDK - Euro Death Knot) with long tails as well as the Double Flat Overhand (same as the overhand, but continued with one additional wrap around its spine). My confusion on this topic is this: Some folks suggest a Flat Overland (which some also call EDK) as the best knot, others the Standard Double Fisherman or the Flat Double Fisherman, yet others the Flat Ring Bend.

So, my question to you: which is the best knot for joining rap ropes, and are there knots you would advise against?




  Reply

11-Dec-2016 08:43 AM

Jeff Ward

Jeff Ward
Posts: 46

Ncroclimber,

The method you are using is a safe method.  Essentially you are putting a square knot between a double fisherman's, I'm assuming in order to make the fisherman's easier to untie.  As long as the "half of a double fishermans" are tied well this is a very safe knot(s).  It is much easier for this knot to get caught when you pull it (compared to a flat overhand) but it is a safe knot.  

Jeff

  Reply

11-Dec-2016 08:43 AM

Jeff Ward

Jeff Ward
Posts: 46

A properly tied flat overhand is what I use and what I recommend.  

  Reply

11-Dec-2016 06:07 PM

ncroclimber

ncroclimber
Posts: 2

thank you very much Jeff. I've used this method for at least 20 yrs(?). I'm pretty sure I started using it after reading either a Climbing or R&I article. 

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