The Masters


Jeff Ward - IFMGA/AMGA Guide

Jeff Ward is an IFMGA-licensed and AMGA-certified Alpine, Ski and Rock Guide. He grew up in the Northwest and is co-owner of North Cascades Mountain Guides (www.ncmountainguides.com) based in Mazama. Ward is a lead instructor for the American Mountain Guides Association and serves on their technical committee.



Martin Volken - IFMGA Guide

Martin Volken is the founder and owner of Pro Guiding Service and Pro Ski and Mountain Service in North Bend, WA. He is a certified IFMGA Swiss Mountain Guide and guides over 120 days per year in North America and Europe as a ski, rock and alpine guide. Volken has pioneered several steep ski descents, ski traverses, alpine and rock routes in the Washington Cascades. He has been a member of the AMGA examiner team since 2000 and has authored and co-authored three books on ski touring and ski mountaineering.

Got a question about climbing? Submit your question in the Ask the Master forum and either Jeff Ward or Martin Volken will supply the answer.

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Rescuing someone heavier than me

30-Nov-2016 08:49 PM

91067697

91067697
Posts: 2

What's the best way for a petite girl like me (about 116pounds or 53kg) to rescue my partner (who is about 170pounds) if he becomes unconscious halfway through a rappel? 

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11-Dec-2016 09:04 AM

Jeff Ward

Jeff Ward
Posts: 27

This is probably a little more complicated than something that could be explained in this forum. You may need to take a rescue course to work through the different scenarios.  

For rescuing someone that is considerably larger than you (or for someone your own size) it's all about mechanical advantage and/or working with gravity as opposed to working against it. Once you have the foundation of being able to build mechanical advantage and the ability to transfer loads to releasable systems you should be able to work through any situation thrown at you.  

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11-Dec-2016 07:13 PM

91067697

91067697
Posts: 2

Thanks! Yeah, I think signing up for a rescue course would be better

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