The Masters


Jeff Ward - IFMGA/AMGA Guide

Jeff Ward is an IFMGA-licensed and AMGA-certified Alpine, Ski and Rock Guide. He grew up in the Northwest and is co-owner of North Cascades Mountain Guides (www.ncmountainguides.com) based in Mazama. Ward is a lead instructor for the American Mountain Guides Association and serves on their technical committee.



Martin Volken - IFMGA Guide

Martin Volken is the founder and owner of Pro Guiding Service and Pro Ski and Mountain Service in North Bend, WA. He is a certified IFMGA Swiss Mountain Guide and guides over 120 days per year in North America and Europe as a ski, rock and alpine guide. Volken has pioneered several steep ski descents, ski traverses, alpine and rock routes in the Washington Cascades. He has been a member of the AMGA examiner team since 2000 and has authored and co-authored three books on ski touring and ski mountaineering.

Got a question about climbing? Submit your question in the Ask the Master forum and either Jeff Ward or Martin Volken will supply the answer.

AMGA GUIDES' TIPS
Anchors: The Quad
Anchors: The Quad
 


CLIMBING FORUMS


-  Accidents (coming soon)
-  Ask Dr. J
-  Ask The Master


Anchors

14-Dec-2016 09:27 AM

MattMunk

MattMunk
Posts: 2

Hi guys,

When climbing a multi pitch route with bolted anchors, I am a huge fan of the quad anchor (Jeff your AMGA video on it is rad). I have been using a cordalette to construct it, but would one inch tubular webbing also work for a quad anchor?

Thanks,

Matt

  Reply

15-Dec-2016 10:59 AM

Jeff Ward

Jeff Ward
Posts: 26

Matt,

Yes, I could see 1-inch tubular webbing woking for a quad but it would be quite bulky on the harness.  The only benefit I could see using webbing would be a slight reduction in cost, but I don't think the savings is really worth it.  

If you do decide to use 1-inch webbing keep an eye on the water knot that is used to tie the webbing into a loop.  With cyclical loading these knots like to slowly ratchet one of the ends shorter and shorter.  Not an issue if you tie the knot with long tails and keep an eye on them but it's one of the down sides of 1-inch tubular webbing.  7mm cord or a triple or quad length dynema sling is usually what I use.  

Jeff

  Reply

16-Dec-2016 07:48 AM

MattMunk

MattMunk
Posts: 2

Thanks Jeff, 

I have been using 7 mm cord and was just thinking about other options. I will check out a longer dyneema sling and see how it is.

Matt

  Reply
 
 
Hello