The Masters


Jeff Ward - IFMGA/AMGA Guide

Jeff Ward is an IFMGA-licensed and AMGA-certified Alpine, Ski and Rock Guide. He grew up in the Northwest and is co-owner of North Cascades Mountain Guides (www.ncmountainguides.com) based in Mazama. Ward is a lead instructor for the American Mountain Guides Association and serves on their technical committee.



Martin Volken - IFMGA Guide

Martin Volken is the founder and owner of Pro Guiding Service and Pro Ski and Mountain Service in North Bend, WA. He is a certified IFMGA Swiss Mountain Guide and guides over 120 days per year in North America and Europe as a ski, rock and alpine guide. Volken has pioneered several steep ski descents, ski traverses, alpine and rock routes in the Washington Cascades. He has been a member of the AMGA examiner team since 2000 and has authored and co-authored three books on ski touring and ski mountaineering.

Got a question about climbing? Submit your question in the Ask the Master forum and either Jeff Ward or Martin Volken will supply the answer.

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Belaying: Assist from Above
 


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Ice tools and Crampons

25-Jan-2017 11:15 AM

3202193896

3202193896
Posts: 1

What ice tools and crampons would you recommend for a beginner who took an ice climbing clinic, got hooked and now wants to invest in some of his own gear? 

  Reply

28-Jan-2017 01:47 PM

Jeff Ward

Jeff Ward
Posts: 46

The one piece of advice I can give you is don't skimp on the tools to save money.  A good set of ice climbing tools will make your climbing day much more enjoyable.  A bad set of tools will make a difficult activity that much harder.  Everyone has their own preferences but my favorite tools for straight up ice climbing are the Petzl Quarks and Black Diamond Cobras.  

For crampons find something with vertical front points in either a mono or dual point configuration.  There are lots of crampons out there that will work well.  Some people like the horizontal front points but I'm a big fan of the vertical points.  

Hope that helps.  Have fun out there. 

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30-Jan-2017 07:03 AM

TommyMac

TommyMac
Posts: 1

Can an ice tool ever be safely used as part of a belay anchor to bring up a second, say in a desperate situation where you are down to one screw?

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