The Masters


Jeff Ward - IFMGA/AMGA Guide

Jeff Ward is an IFMGA-licensed and AMGA-certified Alpine, Ski and Rock Guide. He grew up in the Northwest and is co-owner of North Cascades Mountain Guides (www.ncmountainguides.com) based in Mazama. Ward is a lead instructor for the American Mountain Guides Association and serves on their technical committee.



Martin Volken - IFMGA Guide

Martin Volken is the founder and owner of Pro Guiding Service and Pro Ski and Mountain Service in North Bend, WA. He is a certified IFMGA Swiss Mountain Guide and guides over 120 days per year in North America and Europe as a ski, rock and alpine guide. Volken has pioneered several steep ski descents, ski traverses, alpine and rock routes in the Washington Cascades. He has been a member of the AMGA examiner team since 2000 and has authored and co-authored three books on ski touring and ski mountaineering.

Got a question about climbing? Submit your question in the Ask the Master forum and either Jeff Ward or Martin Volken will supply the answer.

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ring bend as a tie-in knot

26-Jan-2017 05:12 AM

chris

chris
Posts: 2

Hello, so i've been climbing with ring bend as a tie-in knot for the last 2 years. I love its simplicity and how easy it is to untie after being loaded (even though you do need to pay extra attention so that the rope is threaded correctly). However several unconvinced friends are uncomfortable and asked me to find some definitive endorsement by an international body or even some tests to support it. I was searching the net for some fall strength comparisons with the classic figure 8 but i don't seem to find any data on it. 

 Could you maybe help out?

  Reply

28-Jan-2017 01:18 PM

Jeff Ward

Jeff Ward
Posts: 46

I'm probably not the best person to ask about this but I do know several certified guides that lean towards the "geeky" side of things when it comes to breaking strengths and such and prefer that knot (also known as the bro knot or sisterhood knot).  

It's easy to tie and untie and has the added advantage of having the tail point towards your harness, which cleans things up a bit.  Personally, I like to go with a standard figure eight.  My partners can easily double check me and it's what I've always used.  Sorry I can't be of more help.

  Reply

20-Feb-2017 01:22 AM

chris

chris
Posts: 2

Thanks very much Jeff,

Really appreciate taking the time!
  Reply
 

 
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