• TNB: Climbing's Big Mistake
  • TNB: Trad Dads and Dad Bods
  • TNB: Do the Right Thing
  • TNB: Big Wall Soloing Sustenance – Cookies vs. Bugs
  • TNB: When Your Rope Falls Off—and 5 Ways to Prevent the Nightmare
  • TNB: Before I Die - What Would Climbers Think?
  • TNB: Raphael Slawinski - Firsthand Account of Everest Earthquake
  • TNB: Point Break - Sharma, Andrada on the Big Screen
  • TNB: Muscle Shoals - Rock and Soul
  • TNB: Naked Soloist is Saner Than Me
  • TNB: The Hard Climb to Heaven
  • TNB: Summer Camp
  • TNB: Suicide in Our Sights
  • TNB: Ethan Pringle's 10 Tips for Sending Your Project
  • TNB: Hawaii Rocks - Totally Aloha
  • TNB: PointGate - Why Comp Climbing Is Not The Future
  • TNB: My First Epic
  • TNB: Eight Ways to Avoid Braking Bad - The Art of the Soft Catch
  • TNB: #Dawnwall and The Creation of Alex Honnlove
  • TNB: Vision Quest - Benji Fink and Mexico’s Steepest Big Wall
  • TNB: The New Dawn (Wall) of Climbing
  • TNB: The Top 5 Weekend Whippers of 2014 (Plus the Comments)
  • TNB: 10 Tips for Jolene Kay, Professional Climber (and Hot Actress)
  • TNB: The Story Behind the Craziest of Rescues
  • TNB: The Risk of Climbing
  • TNB: How to Get Stronger by Doing Nothing for 5 Minutes a Day
  • TNB: Eight Ways to Improve Your Footwork
  • TNB: In Praise of the Weekend Warrior
  • TNB: Joe Kinder Visits the World's Hardest Cave
  • TNB: Celebrating Insomnia in Chamonix
  • TNB: Run, Rabbit - Hermann Gollner, 71, Cranks Pump-O-Rama (5.13a)
  • TNB: Five Best Photos of 2014
  • TNB: Clip Like A Pro - 5 Tips from Sasha DiGiulian and Sean McColl
  • TNB: Five Things Every Gym Climber Must Know About Climbing Outside
  • TNB: Still Jeff Lowe
  • TNB: Moving Over Stone With Doug Robinson
  • TNB: Wheels Up—The Top 5 Climbing Rigs
  • TNB: Is K2 The New Everest?
  • TNB: Things—Besides Us, That Is—That Fall
  • TNB: When Homemade Gear Works, Sorta
  • TNB: The Outsiders
  • TNB: R.I.P. Homero Gutierrez Villarreal - The Padrino of El Potrero
  • TNB: A Short Talk with Sierra Blair-Coyle
  • TNB: Ian Dory, Ninja, or The Craziest Thing I Ever Seen
  • TNB: The Best Crag Dogs of All Time
  • TNB: 5 Ways to Make People Love Your Routes
  • TNB: Hudon and Jones, and Don't Forget It!
  • TNB: Climbing's Tribal Rites
  • TNB: Sasha DiGiulian and Alex Johnson On How to Be a Modern Pro
  • TNB: Is Dean Potter A Bad Father?
  • TNB: Silly Places We’ve Slept - Tales of Unplanned Bivies
  • TNB: Forgotten Hero - Frank Sacherer 1940-1978
  • TNB: The World-Class Weekend Warrior – Martin Keller Climbs V15
  • TNB: Everest Sherpas No Longer Willing to “Grin and Bear It”
  • TNB: Hardheaded Helmet Lesson Learned
  • TNB: Six Most Awesome Jobs for Climbers
  • TNB: The Coolest Climbing Deal Breaker
  • TNB: Sharma and Glowacz Send World’s Steepest Rock Climb
  • TNB: An Encounter with a Legend - Patrick Edlinger, Plus A Whipper Vid
  • TNB: Six Things Every Climber Should Do Before They Die
  • TNB: Falling from the Top
  • TNB: Weekend Whipper
  • TNB: Band of Crushers
  • TNB: Charlie Porter, We Hardly Knew You
  • TNB: Climbing's Greatest Route Names
  • TNB: Hot Women Die and Have Sex on Everest
  • TNB: The Great Tragedy at Carderock
  • TNB: Thoughts On Death, and Last Words
  • TNB: Climbing's Next Big Story
  • TNB: Next Level? Honnold Pushes the Game on El Sendero Luminoso
  • TNB: Jeff Lowe Invented the Sport
  • TNB: The Most Popular Weekend Whippers of the Year
  • TNB: If Ondra Isn't The Best Climber In The World, Who Is?
  • TNB: Storm Years or Typhoon? The Biggest Issue in Climbing
  • TNB: Jim Bridwell Speaks
  • TNB: Honnold's Biggest Solo
  • TNB: Death on Forbidden Peak - Was the NPS Complicit?
  • TNB: Ice Climbing Goes to Sochi Olympics
  • TNB: When Gear Attacks
  • TNB: 8a.nu: The Best Climber in the World is the One with the Most Points
  • TNB: Shutdown: Illegal Climbers in Yosemite—Ninjas or Criminals?
  • TNB: Who is the Best Climber in the World?
  • TNB: The New Courage in a Rucksack
  • TNB: Unsolved Mystery - The Ten Sleep Shooting
  • TNB: The Pad Problem - Honnold, Kehl on Headpoints and Highballs
  • TNB: Travels with Delaney Miller - National Champ Turns to Rock
  • TNB: Jail Food and Booty
  • TNB: Love on the Road
  • TNB: Is Pakistan Safe for Climbers?
  • TNB: Flash Floods, Climbers and How to Get Out of the Way
  • TNB: Climbing's Next Level
  • TNB: Best in Show - Brand New Gear from the Outdoor Retailer Show
  • TNB: Adam Ondra Ties the Knot
  • TNB: Under Pressure - Trotter and Honnold On How Bets Can Help You Send
  • TNB: The Tragedy of Tito Traversa
  • TNB: DR's Crazy Brain Puzzle. Get It Correct or Else.
  • TNB: What Happened To Climbing Films?
  • TNB: Cry of the Colorado Fussy Snivel
  • TNB: Mystery Solved!
  • TNB: The Mystery of Moses Tower - Help Answer a 25-Year-Old Question
  • TNB: No Such Luck
  • TNB: Erasing Midnight Lightning
  • TNB: Mayhem - Crawling, Balling & Brawling on the Evere$t Soap Opera
  • TNB: Watching the Boston Marathon
  • TNB: Chasing the Devil's Snort
  • TNB: Born-Again Gumby
  • TNB: Super Unknown - Austin Dark Horse Establishes 5.14d in Random Texas Cave
  • TNB: Fearless?
  • TNB: The Big Freaking Deal, Ain't Bouldering
  • TNB: Honnold's Achilles' Heel
  • TNB: He's Either Crazy or a Poet
  • TNB: The Fish Cheat and the Prince of Climbing
  • TNB: A Letter from Santa... I mean Sharma
  • TNB: Traveler's Advisory - El Potrero Chico, Mexico
  • TNB: A Year Ago - Athol
  • TNB: Gun Control
  • TNB: What's the Problem?
  • TNB: Derek Hersey's Magic Carpet
  • TNB: The Apprentices
  • TNB: The Jungle
  • TNB: Klem Loskot is Back Climbing V15 and 5.15
  • TNB: Eliminated
  • TNB: The Hurt Locker
  • TNB: The Perils of Sport Climbing
  • TNB: Baddest Climb of the Year
  • TNB: Crossfit Misfit
  • TNB: Eating People and the Real Seventh Summit
  • TNB: Bring It On, Bitch!
  • TNB: What Would Warren Harding Do?
  • TNB: The Curse Of The Bandit
  • TNB: Reality Pro
  • TNB: Chris Sharma and The Art of Jeep Maintenance
  • TNB: American Dirtbag
  • TNB: How Not To Climb 5.12
  • TNB: Project FAIL
  • TNB: The Backwards Future of Climbing
  • TNB: The Death of Progress
  • TNB: The Da Vinci CO
  • TNB: The Philosopher King
  • TNB: Spam Alert
  • TNB: Bad Genes - The Different Types of Gumbies
  • TNB: Mouth Wide Shut
  • TNB: Outside Reality
  • TNB: The Day I Saved Jésus
  • TNB: My Pad, Your Problem
  • TNB: House Rules
  • TNB: Five Things I Don't Hate About Climbing
  • TNB: Metro-Pointing
  • TNB: Beast in the East
  • TNB: Artificial Intelligence
  • TNB: To Boldly Go Sprad Climbing
  • TNB: Self-Destruction
  • TNB: Soul Sport
  • TNB: Nine Pitches
  • Video Spotlight
    Alex Honnold Solos Lover's Leap in Dan Osman Tribute
    Alex Honnold Solos Lover's Leap in Dan Osman Tribute
    Whipper of the Month
    Weekend Whipper: Alastair McDowell's Los Indignados (M7) Screamer
    Weekend Whipper: Alastair McDowell's Los Indignados (M7) Screamer

    TNB: Best in Show - Brand New Gear from the Outdoor Retailer Show


    Exactly twice a year, the earth’s tilt aligns perfectly with the sun, and for one 24-hour period, day and night are equal lengths. People run about trying to balance eggs and brooms on end, and wax poetic about the return to balance.

    Well, much like the equinox, a similar, startling shift occurs within the entire outdoor industry. Twice a year, once in winter and again in the summer, the majority of America’s outdoor industry professionals gather in a concrete-walled building in Salt Lake City, and convene at what is called the Outdoor Industry Retailer Trade Show. At “the show,” the entire Salt Palace Convention Center is filled to the brim with new “revolutionary” outdoor gear, and although I didn’t see anyone balance an egg on its end, I definitely heard a hefty earful about new climbing gear. So while the balance of the outdoor industry returns to the earth this week, I’d like to give Rock and Ice readers a heads-up on a few pieces of climbing gear that were born (or reborn) at this summer’s OR Trade Show and will be available in the spring of 2014.

    The Five Ten Anasazi Lace-Up.Five Ten Anasazi Lace-Up (aka Pinkies)

    When Leo Houlding sent The Prophet—his death-defying 5.13d R route on the southeast buttress of El Cap—he needed a secret weapon. And the arrow in Houlding’s quiver was a pair of old, but hardly used Pinkies, which Houlding had been saving for the send of a lifetime. The reason Houlding had been hoarding this particular pair of shoes, however, was the fact that Five Ten had quit manufacturing the precise edging shoe. But now, new for spring 2014, the Pinkies are back. However, the shoes old “Achilles’ heel,” which coincidentally was the bulging, unfitting heel cup of the old model, has been redesigned to actually fit and not poke out or fold in like they used to. While being shown a prototype of the shoe at the Trade Show, a Five-Ten representative explained that upon hearing of the Pinkies' resurrection, Sonnie Trotter—who famously redpointed the Cobra Crack (5.14) in a pair of these bad boys—wrote the company and expressed his joy as if “he had been reunited with an old girlfriend.” “It almost made me cry,” said the rep.


    The 55-liter Cinder Pack.The North Face Cinder Pack
    32-L ($119) 40-L ($129) 55-L ($149)

    You may often hear the phrase, “they don’t make em’ like they used to.” Well now, The North Face does. Inspired by the original TNF Dumpster pack, the new Cinder is exactly what legendary climber Peter Croft wanted. Working with Austin Robbs—a young climber from North Carolina who learned the art of sewing as a teenager from his mother who made flags as a side business—Croft tested prototype after prototype, and insisted on three things: simplicity, durability and that the pack stand upright on the ground when empty (much like a haul-bag). The Cinder, which comes in a 32, 40 and 55-liter size, has a timeless design with updated details such as the buckles being made of metal instead of plastic. This pack has been tested and approved by climbing heavyweights Alex Honnold, Renan Ozturk and Conrad Anker.



    The Metolius Ultralight Chalk Bag.Metolius Ultralight Chalk Bag

    How often do you hear about the grams shaved from quickdraws, biners, harnesses, and helmets and then witness those same lightweight components paired with a heavy-duty, fluff filled chalk bag? Finally, the Metolius team has noticed the irony and taken action. Manufacturing a new chalk bag that weighs 30 grams (up to 70 percent lighter than standard chalk bags), Metolius has now made it possible to shave the precious grams from your rock climbing kit without having to buy expensive new hardware. Genius!


    Black Diamond's Offset X4 Camalots. Black Diamond’s Camalot X4 Offset Cams
    $69.95 each

    The Camalot has become a fixture on the protection circuit, and just this year Black Diamond introduced the X4 series, which features a flexible, yet armored single-stem design [See Field Tested, Rock and Ice No. 211]. Now, Black Diamond has added a few siblings to the line by introducing the X4 offset cams. These specialized pieces will fill out the holes (pun intended) in your rack by giving you the option of plugging those pesky flairs and pin scars. The offsets will be available in the following sizes: .1/.2, .2/.3, .3/.4, .4/.5, .5/.75.


    A closer look at the sliding, locking mechanism of the Pure Slider's gate. Edelrid’s Pure Slider Locking Carabiner

    The German climbing gear manufacturer Edelrid has produced what will likely be the lightest locking carabiner on the market. At just 42 grams, this biner has a sliding, spring-loaded, locking mechanism on the gate, which is actually possible to operate with one hand while clipping, making it valuable as both an anchor tool as well as a locking, clipping biner used as part of a running belay. The Pure Slider locker will surely be a go-to piece of gear for the gram-conscious alpine climber tired of heavy 60-gram, screwgate lockers.


    Reader's Commentary:

    Don't want to use Facebook, but still want to comment? We have you covered:

    Add Your Comments to this article: