• Can You Decrease Fall Factor?
  • Should You Be Allowed to Practice Lead Falls in the Gym?
  • Rope Certifications: Twins, Doubles, or Both?
  • Are Cam Placements Compromised in Wet Rock?
  • What's the Correct Way to Girth Hitch to Your Harness?
  • Choosing Ice Screw Length
  • The Holding Power of Nuts
  • Should You Clip the Belay As Your First Lead Pro?
  • Should I Worry About Spinning Bolt Hangers?
  • Belay-Loop Myth
  • Rock Cleaning Made Easy
  • Why Not Clip Directly to Cam-Stem Loops?
  • What's The Protocol For Naming a Route After Yourself?
  • Is Dropped Gear Still Safe?
  • Can Ropes and Slings Be Contaminated By Essential Oils?
  • Is It Okay to Wear Socks with Rock Climbing Shoes?
  • How Should You Test Gear Placements?
  • Can You Use Adhesive Tape on Ropes, Cords, Webbing?
  • A Better EDK?
  • What's the Difference Between a Double and a Single Rope?
  • Does It Count As a Free Ascent If You Grab the Anchor?
  • I Found a Rope - Is it Safe to Use?
  • Am I Using a Daisy Chain Wrong?
  • Should I Buy a Plastic or Foam Helmet?
  • Why Doesn't Anyone Climb in Knickers Anymore?
  • Is Weight or Range More Important in Cams?
  • The Mysterious Phenomenon of Rope Shrinkage
  • Worst-Case Scenario - A Factor 2 Fall
  • The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts
  • Why Are Climbing Shoes So Expensive?
  • Flaws in the Yosemite Decimal System
  • How Durable is Trad Gear?
  • Using Super Glue on Your Fingers
  • The Worst Gear Ever Invented
  • Marking the Middle of a Rope
  • Why Do People Use Oval Biners?
  • Is it Ethical to Clean a New Route?
  • Aid Climbing = Moped Riding
  • Will Sweat Harm My Harness?
  • Should You Use Rope or Webbing to Connect to an Anchor?
  • Choosing Between C4s and Friends
  • Can You Lead On a Static Rope?
  • Can I Use Climbing Bolts For Anchors in a Gym?
  • Are Falls Held or Breaking Strength More Important In a Rope?
  • Does Poop Harm a Climbing Rope?
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Shopping for Economy Carabiners
  • When You Fly, Can You Carry On Climbing Gear?
  • Can I Trust Fixed Draws?
  • Which Helmet WIll Fit My Big Head?
  • Are Adjustable Leg Loops Useful?
  • Should I clip Ice Screws with Screamers?
  • How do I Make a Bomber Anchor?
  • Can I Modify my Crampon Without Compromising the Integrity?
  • Hot Versus Cold Forging
  • Caring For Your Fingertips
  • Are Sewn Slings Stronger Than Knotted Ones?
  • When to Replace Climbing Webbing
  • Using Grip Dip To Color Code Gear
  • The Benefits of Cotton
  • How to Pull a Rappel Rope
  • How to Properly Orient a Carabiner Gate
  • Are My Fuzzy Quickdraws Safe?
  • How to Stretch Climbing Shoes
  • Are 1/2-inch bolts really better than 3/8-inch?
  • Should I Resole My Rock Shoes?
  • How to Hand Drill
  • Lonely Climber Looking for Woman
  • Is My Invented Knot Safe?
  • Difference Between Double and Twin Ropes
  • Dealing With an Argumentative Partner
  • Will Antifreeze Ruin Rope?
  • Why Is a Rack Called a Rack?
  • Rock Shoes For a Big Guy
  • Do They Kill Geese To Get Down?
  • How to Wash a Rope
  • Do Cam Teeth Do Anything?
  • Can I Fix Delaminated Rock Shoes?
  • Can I Mix a Static With a Dynamic Rope for Rappelling?
  • Should You Lower Or Rap Through Anchors?
  • How Should The Middle Man Tie In?
  • How Do I Get a Good Climbing Man?
  • Do Falls Weaken Bolts?
  • Should I Rope Solo?
  • Should I Angle Ice Screws Down?
  • How Should Old Climbers Train?
  • Can I Make a Belay Loop?
  • Reusing Ice Screw Holes
  • Overcoming the Fear of Falling
  • Choosing a Stove Fuel
  • Will My Hiking Boots Work With Crampons?
  • Do Heavy People Shock Load the Rope?
  • Can Offset Cams Subsitute for Regular Cams?
  • Can I Resling My Cams Myself?
  • Are Older Alien Cams Safe?
  • Will sports drinks freeze more slowly than water?
  • The Truth About Climbing Supplements
  • Can I Make My Leashed Tools, Leashless?
  • Rope Stretch Facts
  • How To Cut a Rope Without a Knife
  • Secrets of the Toprope
  • How to Sharpen Crampons
  • Should I Become a Climbing Guide?
  • Preventing Climbing Rope Wear
  • How to Remove an Old Bolt
  • How to Customize Ice Tool Picks
  • Double Rope Facts
  • Do It Yourself Fruit Boots
  • Climbing Rope Sheath Slippage
  • Rockfall Safety
  • Do Screamers Work?
  • Defining the Cheater Stick and Stick Clip
  • Climbing Skin Care
  • Selecting a Gym Rope
  • Quick Links for Climbing
  • Are Russian Cams Good?
  • When To Retire Climbing Gear and Ropes
  • Should I Get a Link Cam?
  • How to Get a Climbing Mate
  • Will Dog Urine Harm My Rope?
  • Using Steel Carabiners for Fixed Quickdraws
  • Petzl Tibloc and Climbing Rope Sheath Damage
  • Overcoming Anger
  • Fixing a Spinning Bolt
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    First Repeat of Jeff Lowe's Metanoia on the Eiger North Face
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    Weekend Whipper: Trad Dyno Attempt at Fair Head, Northern Ireland
     



    Am I Using a Daisy Chain Wrong?

    26-Jul-2016
    By

    I recently upgraded from a Dynex Daisy Chain to a wider 18mm nylon one from Black Diamond, which I figured would be safer for cleaning than the thinner one. Then I came across some interesting online articles stating that I might be using a daisy wrong. I was taught to clip the top and a preceding pocket into the two separate anchor bolts, yet there is controversy about this method with a daisy chain. Any input?

    —Drake Cloin via email

    Gear Guy speaks: Daisy chains are not for anchoring yourself, ever, in any situation. How is a nylon daisy chain with a pocket strength of 3 kN safer than a Dynex one with a pocket strength of 3 kN? (Loop strengths are the same, too: 16 kN.) Thick versus thin has nothing to do with it. The strength of a daisy chain is in the stitching. For the two daisy chains you mentioned, the pockets are intentionally sewn on the weak side so they will break out if you fall, limiting forces and sparing you a ruptured heart, which is what you’ll get when you fall onto a daisy chain that does not stretch.

    I also have to question why are you clipping yourself to a belay with a daisy chain.

    Given the above, and all the infinite number of ways that people misuse daisy chains, I’m surprised that any company takes on the liability that comes with producing them. I get more questions about daisy chains than about any other single item of climbing gear. Daisy Chains to Gear Guy equals Job Security!

    There are so many messed-up things with your question, and by implication how you use daisy chains, it’s tough to winnow it down to one corrective nugget, or even two.

    Dig it: Daisy chains are not for anchoring yourself, ever, in any situation. Nor are they for attaching yourself to pro while you are on lead. Daisy chains are for temporarily connecting yourself to an anchor while you are on rappel and don’t have the rope to properly tie in with. They are also useful for attaching yourself to your jumars, and for clipping to your aiders to prevent you from dropping them.

    Read Climb Safe: Daisy Chain Dangers

    Even if you only use daisy chains as I just outlined, you can still misuse them and rupture your heart or worse. How?

    Due to optical illusion, it can appear that you are safely attached to a daisy chain. In reality, when you clip the end of a daisy chain to a placement (or your jumars or anything else), and use the same carabiner to clip a pocket and that pocket rips out, the daisy chain is no longer connected to whatever you clipped to. I’d have an easier time explaining sex to an eight-year-old than how this daisy chain sleight of hand works, but believe me, what I say is true. Watch the "Black Diamond daisy chain video” to see for yourself.

    The way around the above danger is to use two carabiners on your daisy chain (which it sounds like you are doing) or put a twist in your daisy chain (again, watch the video). Or, use the C.A.M.P. Daisy Chain Twist. This daisy chain, as you might guess, has a safety twist built into it—you can’t clip it wrong. Actually, I have to take that back. At some point, someone is going to figure out how to screw that one up and I’ll have to write another lengthy column about the dangers of daisy chains. Gear Guy has spoken!

     

    This article was published in Rock and Ice issue 224 (February 2015).

     

    Find More Climbing Gear Advice Here

     

    GOT A QUESTION? E-mail Gear Guy! rockandicegearguy@gmail.com

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