• Roca Verde: Beat the Heat in Northwest Spain
  • Smith Rock Resurgence
  • Green Mountain Grip: Vermont’s Top Climbing Destinations
  • Climbing Beta: Rocktown, Georgia
  • Climbing Beta: El Potrero Chico, Mexico
  • The Hardest Bouldering in America ... and Maybe the World
  • Everest Deserves Respect: Why It's Hard, From Someone Who's Been There
  • The Epic of All Epics
  • Origin of Species: Fontainebleau
  • El Cap's Hardest: Wings of Steel
  • Cragging in the Bay Area
  • Superwuss (5.10), Black Canyon
  • Island of Opportunity: Exploring the Potential of Puerto Rico
  • Waimea (5.10d): Runmey, New Hampshire
  • Storming Castles: New Routing in the High Sierras
  • Pure Magic: Spellbound By the Boulders of Switzerland
  • Cliff Notes: Moe's Saved!
  • Arctic Gold
  • Where Worlds Collide
  • Tahoe Moderates
  • Not So Fast: Lessons From a Father-Son Trip to Patagonia
  • Red Dihedral (IV 5.10b)
  • Place of Happiness
  • High Exposure: A Fresh Perspective on the Gunks
  • Flying Buttress (5.10)
  • California's Big House
  • Jah Man (5.10) Sister Superior
  • Wild Wild West Virginia
  • Wild Chihuahua
  • Vintage Vantage
  • Tuff Love
  • True Believers
  • Tower of the Damned, Climbing the Crystal Tower
  • The Stonemasters Climb at Pirates Cove
  • The Hidden
  • The Black is Beautiful
  • The Beast of the East
  • Souvenirs
  • Southern Idaho Secrets
  • Simon Yates' New Route on Mount Vancouver
  • Routes Less Traveled
  • Rock Climbing in India
  • Open Water Treading in Paradise
  • New Mexico
  • Never Mind The Dinosaurs
  • Mountain of Clark
  • Local Color
  • Limestone Harmony
  • King Air
  • In the Land of Myths
  • Ice Climbing in Norway with WIll Gadd
  • Green Party
  • Generational Shift
  • Devil's Advocate
  • Deep Water Soloing in Mallorca
  • Conquistdors of the Useful
  • Classic Acts
  • Bouldering in Hampi India
  • Beyond the Fringe
  • Backwoods Bouldering
  • Attack of the Daks
  • Armenia Rock Climbing
  • America's Best Climbing Area: Red River Gorge
  • Alex and Thomas Huber Climb in Queen Maud Land
  • Ain't it Grand
  • Age of Reason
  • The Prophet
  • Sunshine (5.10) // Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos
  • Shagged: Maine's Shag Crag Deals with Perma Draws
  • That Which Shall Not be Named
  • El Cajon Climbing Crag Bolts Chopped
  • Climbing Dark Star, a Sierra Classic
  • Rock Climbing and Bouldering in Mongolia
  • Destination Sinks Canyon Wyoming
  • Defying the Red Rock Bolt Ban
  • Black Canyon of the Gunnison, The Diagonal Epic
  • Creatures of Feature
  • Seeking Life After Death
  • Hyalite Canyon Access in Danger
  • Free Will in Purgatory
  • WAR IN PATAGONIA!
  • Moonlight Rising
  • THE NORTH WIND AND THE SUN
  • Solar Eclipse
  • Shattered Glass
  • Black Sheep
  • Patz on the Back
  • Seeing Perfect Visionary
  • JAWS II
  • R' is for Rant
  • Cold War
  • TRAD-MIXED LIVES FREE
  • EVEREST 2008
  • Monster Jacks
  • Border Country
  • Wabi Sabi
  • ¡Prohibido Escalar!
  • Good Ice Hunting
  • Cochamó Madness
  • Suffer and Be Merry
  • Game On
  • Close But No Cigar
  • Video Spotlight
    Rooftown Vol. 2 - Featuring the Bouldering Exploits of Matt Gentile
    Rooftown Vol. 2 - Featuring the Bouldering Exploits of Matt Gentile
    Whipper of the Month
    Weekend Whipper: Roadside Attraction Trad Fall
    Weekend Whipper: Roadside Attraction Trad Fall
     



    Climbing Beta: Rocktown, Georgia

    10-Sep-2015
    By Moja Gear

    The following beta is courtesy of mojagear.com:

    Rocktown, Georgia

    Overview

      Every bit as good as its more popular sandstone counterparts of Horse Pens and Stone Fort, Rocktown has exceptional bouldering in a more secluded setting. The climbing is spread out amongst the large to downright massive boulders on top of Pigeon Mountain in Northwest Georgia. Front areas can get crowded quick, but there is a near endless amount of rock. Find serenity inside “The Maze” or just walk further back for hidden classics and unclimbed problems.

     

    Climbing Style

    Ninety-percent of people that come to Rocktown come to boulder. But one can find traditional climbing crags hidden throughout the area; the "Lost Wall" being the most popular spot. For ambitious adventurers, there are plenty of other cliffs to explore behind the boulders, or you can also easily just drive up Pigeon Mountain to find them.

     

    Best season

    Southern sandstone can take some adjustment. Get ready for those slopers!The best time to climb is Fall through early Spring. Sunny but chilly days give killer friction and the absolute best conditions to send your project. Rocktown stays relatively temperate, but be warned: summers can be scorching, and winter cold fronts can bring temps as low as 0°F!

     

    Climbing grade range

    In Rocktown, you'll find bouldering from V-easy to V-really hard, and there's so much of everything in between. There is truly plenty to climb whether you're a first-time climber or a professional!

     

    Best local spot

    The small town of LaFayette, Georgia offers restaurant choices that include breakfast options, pizza, Mexican, and Chinese food. But don't expect anything to stay open late. If you're looking for real civilization, drive about an hour to Chattanooga, Tennessee or Atlanta, Georgia. They're both easy trips to take when you need to give your hands and body a rest day.

     

    Top climbs in area

    Climber paws at slopers on <em>The Triple Slaps</em> (V3).

    Bouldering

    - The Scoop (V2) – Exactly what it sounds like!

    - Golden Showers (V4) – Beautiful tall problem

    - Soap on a Rope (V5) – Lots of moves, tough top out

    - Blue (V5) – Awesome technical slab

    - Croc Bloc (V5) - Overhung highball

    - Lab Rats (V6) – Fun powerful face

    - Sherman Photo Roof (V7) – Very steep classic climb with a lot of history

    - The Orb (V8) – Hard slopers and overhung. Everyone's project at some point

    - Golden Harvest (V10) – One of the best boulder problems anywhere

    Trad

    - Booze and Broads (5.9+) – Great corner climb

     

    Best kept secret

      Definitely head into Petty John's Cave at the base of Pigeon Mountain. Temps stay constant, so it's perfect for days when it's too hot or cold to climb. Bring a lot of lights, a buddy system, and please don't get lost in the miles of caverns. It's easier than you might think!

     

    How stiff is the grading?

    Supposedly the climbing in Rocktown is considered to be relatively stout, but the “Southern Sandstone” style can be picked up and adjusted to in a few days. Don't let the grading deter you; the climbing in Rocktown is truly fantastic!

     

    Where to stay?

    Primitive camping is available within a mere five-minute drive from the parking lot. It's about as convenient as it gets.

     

    Other information

    Problems at Rocktown range from V-easy to V13. There is a Walmart in LaFayette for all your emergency camping needs. Like it or not, this place can be a lifesaver!

     

    IMPORTANT:

    A Georgia Outdoor Recreational Pass (GORP) is needed to climb and camp in Rocktown. They are cheap, last for a duration of a year, and help keep the areas clean and safe; so don't skimp out! You can purchase these online at georgiawildlife.com.

     

    Beta contributed by Kevin Boyko.


    Prefer a trip south of the border?
    Check out beta for El Potrero Chico, Mexico

     


    About Moja Gear 

    Moja Gear is a community-powered hub for rock climbing content and gear. Share and explore climbing stories, interviews, training tips, videos, and more at mojagear.com. Now through November 30, 2015, enter ROCKANDICE at checkout to save 15% .

    Reader's Commentary:

    Don't want to use Facebook, but still want to comment? We have you covered:

    Add Your Comments to this article:
    Hello